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Topic: Controlling basement heating on U295 (Read 619 times) previous topic - next topic

Controlling basement heating on U295

Just purchased our Perfect Motorhome, a U295 with NO SLIDES.  Now we're trying to figure out how everything functions.
As winter is approaching, I'm worried about freezing of water tanks.  We have the dual zone thermostat and have learned how to set both A/C and Furnace, but not sure how to secure the basement heating.
Any assistance or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Danny & Peggy Derrick
1999 U295 - Our Perfect Motorhome ( NO SLIDES )

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #1
RWE Lost,

Welcome to the ForeForum.

Please tell us what year your coach is and what thermostat you have.

A good idea to edit your signature to identify exactly what coach you have (see how others have styled theirs).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #2
I agree. No slides and no Aqua hot to cause issues! Enjoy. I don't use mine in the winter so no help
1996 U295-36, Cummins 300hp, 8.3. Build number 4864. Vin number 1F97D536XTNO54271. Purchased October 31, 2019.

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #3
We have a 1999 U295 with the Duo-Therm Comfort Control thermostat.
I have figure you how to set the thermostat to start the Furnace in both Zones 1 & 2,
and I guess the heated air from the bath room area in Zone 2 is allowed to enter the basement area through the grills located there.
Just wonder if this is correct and if I should add a fan to assist in the transfer of this heated air...?
Danny & Peggy Derrick
1999 U295 - Our Perfect Motorhome ( NO SLIDES )

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #4
If you have propane furnaces, one of those is going to supply heat to the wet bay on the driver's side and to the water heater, storage tanks bay on the passenger side. There is a vent in each of those compartments. Turn on the rear furnace (not heat pump or heat strip), confirm that it's blowing hot air and put your hand to the vents in those bays. At first they will blow cool air and then once enough warm air has entered the furnace duct work the air will start to feel warm. If no air, try the front furnace. When the furnace cycles off they will continue to blow warm air until the heat chamber has cooled down. Most of us who camp in cold weather have remote temperature senders in each of those bays that transmits to a receiver inside the coach so you can monitor the temperature in your bays. I only have one propane furnace, so it supplies heat to the entire coach and the two bays. Check your documentation, if you have it, for how to change the various settings on the thermostat. It's a bit complicated with two ACs, two heat strips or heat pumps on the ACs, and furnace(s). Set the fan to auto so it only runs on the AC units when they are operating for a quieter coach. None of this may apply if your coach has been modified. Make sure you are not blocking the return air vent or any of the duct outlets in the coach. Many of us use small 200W Lasco 120 volt heaters in each of the bays as a backup. These can be plugged into thermatically activated outlets plugged into the 120 volt outlets in the bays so that they turn on and off automatically. The outlets are available at Tractor Supply or Amazon. They are often used with water wells.

If you have Aquahot, which some U295s have, ignore most of this post.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #5
thermatically activated outlets have a limitation is that they are measuring the temp at the place they are plugged into. A water pipe near the floor under the holding tanks may be in a much cooler place. Since we are living in our coach, we manually turn on & off four Lasco 200 watt personal heaters, with multiple remote wireless thermometers reporting back temps. Everything is behind large Reflectix insulation sheets to keep heat in water bays. It is ok if bays get warmer than needed as the 200 w heater cannot over heat the space.

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #6
Congratulations on your fine coach purchase. Do you have propane heat or the aqua hot option?
Scott

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #7
Where are you located? Someone in MN would do things different than TX.

I asked a similar question a couple weeks ago, there were some good answers based on climate. It also depends if your rig will be plugged in continuously. Being in TX, I'll probably go with Chucks method.

Random Questions on Heating
Jason
2000 U295 36' Non-slide  ISC350

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #8
Congratulations on your fine coach purchase. Do you have propane heat or the aqua hot option?
Scott
So you pm'd me that you are propane heat and no aqua hot. Are you planning to stay in the coach or do you wish to winterize your water system for storage? I don't have propane heat, so I'm not versed in the work around to keep it warm to prevent freezing. I would recommend everyone for there particular coach keep on hand needed supplies and equipment too winterize there coach to prevent freeze damage. Never know when you may have to park your coach somewhere for some unknown issue and it may be subject to freezing conditions unattended.
Scott

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #9
I'm still trying to figure out the functions of the board, but I have no plans on much winter camping and sometimes it gets cold here in Texas.  So if I could keep the coach protected with the furnace or shore power I'd be a happy camper.....
Danny & Peggy Derrick
1999 U295 - Our Perfect Motorhome ( NO SLIDES )

Re: Controlling basement heating on U295

Reply #10
If you are staying in Texas and connected to shore power I would just run electric heaters that have built in thermostats. A smaller one in the wet bay and one or two larger ones in the coach. You will need to figure out what circuits are which outlets to avoid overloading and tripping breakers.

Last winter in MN I was able to keep my coach above freezing down to really cold temps with (2) 1500w oil heaters inside and one 1200w small ceramic heater in the water bay. You would have no problems in Texas.