Shock replacement DIY

Topic: Shock replacement DIY (Read 2039 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #25 – December 11, 2022, 10:44:59 pm

Quote from: Bigoil76 – December 11, 2022, 09:48:47 pm

Doug, looking forward to hopefully seeing you and your, ..tools, next month in Q...

Looking forward to seeing you and Dawn and all the others as well. We're keeping a a close eye out for a window of opportunity to run South but having a little snafu with the guy that pushes on the go pedal. Gauges are showing a little abnormality, fuel lines will be checked out this coming Friday and hoping some type of additive will resolve the issue.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #26 – December 11, 2022, 10:56:53 pm

Doug, we will say a prayer for a positive test result and easy repair if needed...

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #27 – December 12, 2022, 01:06:36 am

Quote from: Elliott – December 11, 2022, 05:01:59 pm

No, those are the new Konis. The originals are the blue/yellow Billstiens laying on the ground in the first picture.

Elliott, I can't wait to hear the right quality results.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #28 – December 12, 2022, 01:07:33 am

Quote from: juicesqueezer – December 11, 2022, 08:07:17 pm

Elliott, wish I had seen this post before you started on replacements! I purchased my Koni's from Safe T Plus Steering Control / RV & Truck Steering Stabilizer
and at the same cost it would have cost me online and they put them on for free with coach on the concrete and did not remove any fenders. Air bags had been replaced a few years back at MOT. Sorry I am late, but may help someone else on here!

You had it done by Safe T in TALLAPOOSA, GA?

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #29 – December 12, 2022, 07:49:36 am

Quote from: propman – December 12, 2022, 01:07:33 am

You had it done by Safe T in TALLAPOOSA, GA?

Yes, I came in and had the safety steer installed and they offer free installs, so had both done at the same time. Nice big shop, clean and everyone was very nice.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #30 – December 12, 2022, 05:14:31 pm

I did mine last year, shocks and air bags at the same time. The shocks are easy. The airbags not so much on the fronts. I ended up taking the fiberglass panel off in order to get the front ones done. Almost impossible without doing that. Easy to do the shocks with the panel removed. I know that some shops use a hole saw and make a hole in the stairway to get to the front airbag. Totally not necessary, at least on our rig.

Kevin

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #31 – December 12, 2022, 05:35:36 pm

When I did my rear air bags I had the rear wheels off and and they were easy. I did the right
front with the wheel on and it was a lot of work and for the left side I took the front wheel
off and it was easy.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #32 – December 12, 2022, 10:53:41 pm

I did all my shocks and air bags last year. I removed the tire and wheel to have better access. I did not remove any fenders, as I couldn't figure out how to get them off without damaging the paint. It was a fairly ambitious project. Some of the shock bolts were extremely difficult to remove. They had locking nuts and locktite on them.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #33 – December 13, 2022, 04:15:45 pm

4 week old thread but I'll add to it. I did all eight of my shocks in 2021. The front side did in Salome Arizona and the rears in Puerto penasco mexico. I don't really see a good way to do it without taking the fenders off. It made it much easier. Getting the nuts off though was much harder. My bosch half inch impact gun didn't touch it. On advice from John 44 I went to harbor freight and got the earthquake 3/4 in impact gun. That only worked for some of the nuts. The best thing I had was a three-quarter inch breaker bar and a four foot galvanized pipe to go over it that finally broke all of the nuts. I think a couple I had to cut off and replace them with hardware I bought in Mexico. I've noticed that there's a rust on those bolts which isn't a big surprise.
Luckily my airbags were replaced by a previous owner so hopefully I won't have to do that anytime soon.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #34 – December 19, 2022, 08:23:57 pm

Did the other rear corner today in 1.5hrs... getting faster

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #35 – December 20, 2022, 11:13:09 am

Quote from: Elliott – December 19, 2022, 08:23:57 pm

Did the other rear corner today in 1.5hrs... getting faster

You may have them all done before I get there. Darn. I guess that'll mean you can help when I need mine done. Have you needed any impact tools as the others have?

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #36 – December 20, 2022, 11:25:54 am

Quote from: Zach – December 20, 2022, 11:13:09 am

Have you needed any impact tools as the others have?

I have a 1/2" impact gun that makes things go faster once the nuts are busted loose but in a couple cases the impact gun wasn't enough on it's own. Extra PB Blaster and a long 1/2" breaker bar did the job in those cases.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #37 – December 23, 2022, 05:14:09 pm

The first front corner sucked! A 3/4" earthquake impact wrench didn't move them at all. Thankfully I have a buddy around; we ended up getting them to move with a 10' pipe on a 3/4" breaker bar. I half expected the 1/2" extensions I was using to snap..

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #38 – December 23, 2022, 05:39:46 pm

Take the chinee junk hong kong freight impact driver back for a refund and buy this: Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Impact...
It will rip your arm off or snap the fastener before it fails to take off a rusted bolt/nut. Plus it's cordless. I don't go anywhere without mine. And yes, it's 1/2 inch drive, so lighter tool & accessories. Don't take my word for it, check out the youtoob reviews. Woody.

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #39 – December 23, 2022, 05:45:30 pm

Funny you suggest that Woody, I was already kicking that exact idea around. Very unimpressed by the earthquake. Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #40 – December 23, 2022, 05:49:46 pm

Agree and no cord or compressor required. Plus the price has dropped 50% since I bought mine 4 years ago!!! I only buy HF as throw away emergency tooling these days. JWID.

Quote from: Elliott – December 23, 2022, 05:45:30 pm

Funny you suggest that Woody, I was already kicking that exact idea around. Very unimpressed by the earthquake. Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #41 – December 23, 2022, 05:53:06 pm

Red ones are older Koni's not FSD.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #42 – December 23, 2022, 06:05:33 pm

Quote from: Elliott – December 23, 2022, 05:45:30 pm

Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee

I was wondering about your compressor. I feed my Ingersoll Rand 3/4 impact with an 80 gal IR compressor. If you could convert to a 1/2" air line, it might help.
I bought a Mil M18 Fuel 1/2" impact when they first came out. IIRC, it only came with a 1 or 2 Ah battery. I got a distress call from my brother who had a flat tire and didn't have a tire iron with him. I took the hand tools we would need and my new impact. It wouldn't even budge some of the lug nuts! Good thing I had the hand tools! I soon got a 5 Ah battery which definitely made it much stronger. Maybe an M18 3/4" impact with a big battery would do it, but if you needed a 10' breaker, I know my M18 1/2 wouldn't have a chance.
Maybe the M18 1/2" has been improved or I have a dud.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #43 – December 23, 2022, 06:24:09 pm

My first 1/2 Milwaukee wouldn't break my wheel nuts loose but the second one is a fuel and it
will brake them loose and it can tighten up over 500 ft. lbs. I think the new Fuel will loosen and
tighten even more.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #44 – December 23, 2022, 06:33:13 pm

The 2767 M18 FUEL Cordless Brushless High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring eliminates the need to use a pneumatic tool for those stubborn and rusted bolts by delivering 1,000 ft./lbs. of fastening torque and 1400 ft./lbs. of nut-busting torque. With 2X faster removal speed, users will be able to get the job done faster and be more productive throughout their day. By providing the industry's most compact cordless High Torque Impact Wrench at 8.39 in L, this tool allows for more access in tight spaces. 4-Mode DRIVE CONTROL with Bolt Removal mode gives users the most control over their fasteners. Bolt Removal mode gives the user more control when removing fasteners by slowing to 750 RPM once the fastener has been busted loose. This tool offers quick, tool-free socket changes with a 1/2 in. friction ring anvil.

I do recommend hearing protection and safety glasses. Something is going to break. Crazy powerful. My fuel 1/4" hex driver has broken several snap on sockets 10mm and 16mm and two 3/4 in gear wrenches

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #45 – December 23, 2022, 07:16:03 pm

Dave, M11 Fuel is a brand label. Model number is important. When I bought my 2767-22 4 years ago, the friction ring model had more reverse torque and was pricier. That's what I have, charger and 2 batteries in a case, and it'll take a wheel lug nut off on level 2. Level 4 will make 1400 ft/lb of off torque, which will remove or break anything on our coaches. Hang on tight!!! You either had a defective model or didn't have it set to level 4. I can't find the original u-toob video of the guy removing every lug nut from a Terex wheel loader except one, the convincer for me to invest in the Mil, but this guy does the similar test of the battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGgWlN9Q7y0&t=99s

Quote

I bought a Mil M18 Fuel 1/2" impact when they first came out. IIRC, it only came with a 1 or 2 Ah battery. I got a distress call from my brother who had a flat tire and didn't have a tire iron with him. I took the hand tools we would need and my new impact. It wouldn't even budge some of the lug nuts! Good thing I had the hand tools! I soon got a 5 Ah battery which definitely made it much stronger. Maybe an M18 3/4" impact with a big battery would do it, but if you needed a 10' breaker, I know my M18 1/2 wouldn't have a chance.
Maybe the M18 1/2" has been improved or I have a dud.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #46 – December 23, 2022, 08:19:09 pm

10 feet of pipe is a lot of pipe. In all the years as a heavy duty mechanic I have never used a
cheater that long.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #47 – December 23, 2022, 08:41:30 pm

My Milwaukee 2767 impact wrench did a great job on 11 out of the 16 bolts. Three others wouldn't respond to the 1400ft-lbs nor the several day's worth of PB Blaster and needed to be cut with the grinder.
The 16th bolt was out of reach of the grinder. I used a 1-1/8" impact-rated socket, two 1/2" drive extensions that were supported onto a jack stand. The Harbor Freight Pittsburg 1/2" breaker bar was used to drive it. A square hitch extender tube was put over the handle of the breaker bar and a 6' pipe was put into the other end of the hitch extender. My considerable weight was applied and It worked. That breaker bar, extensions and socket held up to the abuse and did the job.
I used a large 1-1/8 hitch ball wrench to hold the other side of it all. It also worked well.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #48 – December 23, 2022, 09:45:56 pm

PB Blaster doesn't rank very high in penetrant tests. Save your money for FT parts.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs

I've been using ATF/acetone brew for 20+ years and have yet failed to get positive results, other than the acetone evaporates quickly in the oil squirt can. DWMYH. Woody.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #49 – December 23, 2022, 10:08:37 pm

All extensions are not created equal. Most standard extensions absorb the twisting motion of the impact. The extensions for impact use generally have a locking button end and flex much less than a normal extension. If your using two you are doubling the lost motion. The same goes if you are using a swivel adapter. More loss. Short impact socket directly on the impact will produce much higher numbers. I honestly do not recall splitting a nut in the past 40 years. Propane torch and kroil or better yet mouse milk. Several heat cool cycles and they come off or twist the fastener off.

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