Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 10, 2025 ...

The component in the bottom of the photo labeled "start" is also in terrible condition and should be replaced.

WE do have the boost solenoid that we replaced with a new one yesterday but it looks way better than this.  Could we use that if we can't get anything locally?

Yes, that would work.

The boost solenoid and the aux start solenoid are usually interchangeable.  For future reference, the model most recommended on the Forum is linked below.  You aren't likely to find it in the local auto parts stores, but you could get lucky.

Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid : Automotive

Yes
Your boost solenoid will work for your start solenoid.

Where/how might we get an isolator replacement...
...what may have caused a possible fire at some point? 

No telling what happened to the old isolator.  It was WAY overdue for replacement, so RIP.

When you removed the trashed isolator, Brett had you connect the alternator output cable to the start battery cable.  That way, the alternator will directly charge the start batteries.  If you engage your boost switch, then both battery banks will be charged by the alternator.  This will work fine for as long as you need to go without an isolator, so you can take your time shopping.

The old isolator had 4 posts on it, but two of them were connected together with a jumper.  When you go looking for a replacement, all you need is one with 3 posts: ALT, BAT1 and BAT2.  Get one rated for at least 200A.  Links below to a couple popular units.  If you have time to order it and wait for delivery, I would recommend the Victron ArgoFET.  If you are in a hurry, you might find the Cole Hersee at a local parts store.

Amazon.com: Victron Energy Argofet Battery Isolators 200-2AC (2 Batteries...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/cole-hersee/battery---accessories/battery-isolators---universal/8cb8993005ef/cole-hersee-200-amp-battery-isolator/ch00/48160?pos=1

So starts and runs then shuts down. Low coolant sensor failure will cause it to start run 30 seconds and ECM shuts it down . Enough to move from roadway. Engine life saving program. Stop trying to fix everything, that is for next week. Salesman switch just turn it off. If it starts the battery cable condition is good enough. Stop worrying about it. Getting back to your current issue. Starts , runs for 120 seconds and shuts off. Stop engine light illuminated? Check engine light illuminated? If it is this may be an engine life saving function doing its job. Do you have a scan tool for the engine? Scan faults record and erase. Loosing batteries while operation will induce many low voltage faults. If you dont have a scan tool, now is the time to get one. Guessing for a resolution may work but will cost a fortune. ECM could be seeing any sort of fault now and just trying to do its programed job. ECM may have been faulted by the low voltage also. My fuses are in view in that one engine ECM photo kinda hidden in that loop of wires and lines. 2001 ISM. Four to six fuses. Dont actually recall. Almost under the intake tube to intercooler. So sorry and understand the stress.

Maybe a member with a M11 will chime in here, I have a Cummins 8.3 mechanical engine so I'm not familiar with a M11.
Can you run a wire directly from the chassis battery to power the ECM? (with an inline fuse for protection of course)
without seeing a wiring diagram of your coach, I have no idea from where the power is sourced for your ECM, could be something as simple as a connection somewhere in your wiring harness. Thinking this would eliminate a low voltage condition at the ECM.

Here's our wiring diagram:

I also have 1995 M11 Cummins and was getting ready to go to on trip, went out the night before to start it. It started, ran 20-30 seconds and died. Changed Fuel filters, started up, drove 2 miles, died again. This time it would roll over but no start. Coachnet towed to Cummins in Houston, Bad ECM and fuel solenoid shorted. No ECM available, as it was too old. Cummins rebuild approximate turn around  2 weeks Or Ignition King in Santa Fe, Texas could rebuild it and have it to us the next day. Cummins was Twice the cost of Ignition King. Decided Cummins for warranty on road. Bad decision! 6 weeks later got RV back. Runs great now. Don't know if this could be your problem. Good Luck!

Trent & Siobhan,

How is it going this morning?  Any progress to report?  I keep hoping your engine will magically "cure" itself, at least temporarily.

I have been trying to research this problem online.  I'm sure you have been doing the same thing.  I keep seeing reference to the fact that the low coolant sensor is a common cause of problems in all kinds of trucks and RVs.  For instance, see below link.  I know it is a different engine, but the important part is the list of three common "engine quits" causes:

FORETRAVEL

In my reading online, I see that on many occasions, although the coolant reservoir is actually full of liquid, the low level sensor still thinks it is empty.  In other words, the sensor gives a faulty signal.  The standard fix is to replace the sensor.  BUT, if this is not possible, it seems that in some cases the sensor can be bypassed or taken out of the loop.  Doing so MAY allow the engine to start and continue running.  It DOESN'T work in every case.  Removing or bypassing the sensor may prevent the engine from starting at all.  If it does start and continue running, the ECM may "derate" the engine power and only allow limited RPM or speed.  However, that would still hopefully allow you to move the coach to better location.

If you want to try it, you'll need to look at the sensor to see what is required to bypass it.  Does it have a one-piece electric plug connection of some sort, or two separate wires connected to prongs on the sensor.  If it is a single plug, you could try just disconnecting the plug, then see if the engine will start and keep running.  If it starts but then stops again, the next step is to connect the two wires together to close the sensor circuit.  If it is a plug, just use a little piece of wire inserted in the plug holes to complete the circuit.  If you have two separate wires just tie the ends together somehow to complete the circuit.  Try again to start and see what happens.

I know this is a long shot, but it's the best I have come up with in my research.  Worst case scenario, bypassing the sensor will keep the engine from even trying to start, but that won't hurt anything.  If that happens, just put the sensor connector back on and forget this idea.