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Re: The Project Coach

Reply #25 –
Well we spent most of the day pulling fuel lines and are 2 give out dudes.  I said I wasn't going to do fuel lines any more and that was a couple of coaches back. For those that may stumble across this post in the future we used:
~25' of 5/8" for the engine supply
~35' of 3/8" for the return line
~15' of 3/8" for the supply to generator
~15' of 3/8" for the return from the generator
This is a 36' WTBI U270
This coach had no1/2" fuel line for the return. No they were not replaced in the past as they had OEM stickers and ty wraps.
These are Trident A-1 marine grade fuel line
We did use some extra hose so it will make hooking up the fuel lines to the tank much easier to reach as you slide in the tank.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #26 –
Took time to reassemble the rear 6pack with a kit from member Tom McCloud.
1.  This is what you get when you open the package 6 each of 3 different size O rings, 6 springs, 6 plungers, 1 wrench instruction sheet
2. This is a pic of the check valve O ring that our manifold has that did not come with his kit. It is 1/4" id 3/8" od you will need 2
3. The brass plug also has an O ring that was not included. This one is 3/8 id 9/16" od. you will need 2 one for each side.
Now not all manifolds have this valve and plug so you may have to source these O rings. They are common size so most any O ring kit will have them included.
4. Back together ready for the coils.
5. Coils installed ready to go to the test bench (yes I ain't going install this without testing first) then to the coach. No parts left over on the table so this is good.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #27 –
Looks great Mike.
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #28 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
2. This is a pic of the check valve O ring that our manifold has that did not come with his kit. It is 1/4" id 3/8" od you will need 2
3. The brass plug also has an O ring that was not included. This one is 3/8 id 9/16" od. you will need 2 one for each side.
To back up Mike's comments about the two small O-rings that are not included in the rebuild kits, I provided the exact part numbers in my old rebuild thread (linked below).

The check valve uses AS568-010.

The brass plug uses AS568-013.

Working On My Six Pack

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #29 –
I am going to answer a couple of PM's here as others may be thinking the same thing.

After I get finished with this coach's tinker jobs I plan on starting job specific threads so they might be able to be found easier. Like one each for fuel lines, dryer, fan motor and beyond.
 
If/when I get another project coach I guess I will do a thread about it's updating as several has ask. A couple have said they learned something. Thanks for the kind words.

No I will not do a thread or video on brakes, You can read the 4m Book as good as I can. If you want to swing by and do brake work we will be reading the 4M book before we start. If you don't think that you need to read/study that book don't worry about swinging by. If you get off track I will be glad to show you what you need to do to correct the problem.

I did have time to install the rear 6 pack and a new/rebuilt Pure Air Plus dryer this afternoon.

Thanks Chuck as I hunted those numbers for those O rings and couldn't find them.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #30 –
Well today was a stellar day for resealing one of the radiator fan motors and getting it reinstalled. Here are pics. of the day
1. As it looks when it gets to the shop floor
2. Fan blades and hub removed. The hub is tapered with a key so you may need a puller to get it off the shaft. I looked all over the fan blades, hub, and backing plates for a part number or manufacture number but there isn't any info so for now Ernie's fan find will have to do if you need a new fan blade.
3. You have to remove this snap ring to get to the seal that is hid underneath
4. Old seal out new ready to go in.  The old seal came out the old school way where you drill a 1/16" hole in the back of the seal. I dip the drill in grease before I start so chips will stick to the drill bit. Once you have a hole just run in a screw into said hole. Get a pry bar and pry the seal loose. Now the pitfalls are getting chips down in the area behind the seal or scoring the shaft where the seal runs so take care. They do make a seal puller and it seems like someone has posted about one of these tools. (could be craneman)
5. All back together ready to go back to the coach.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #31 –
Good writeup and pictures Mike! Thanks.
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #32 –

I have a puller similar to this but didn't use it as I disassembled the pumps and replaced inner seals and O-rings.

Amazon.com: USSKYBOY 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller Universal Seal Puller for...

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #33 –
Mike I've found that the seal metal is real soft and I have had great luck with driving a prick punch threw then following with a drywall screw just started in hole. I have a home made slide hammer that slids over the head to pull. If it pulls out just go next to that hole and make another. No chips.

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #34 –
A while back Chuck did a great write up on replacing the pressure protection valves so I won't try to compete. It sure seems like they could have made up this piping with less than 12 air lines. Now this don't include the "T"s and 90*s that are used to assemble this mess. The only good thing about this job is that when you get to the front/rear tanks where these valves are located you can just set there on the ground and get after it. Both of these valves diaphragms were shot and leaking like an open line no wonder the compressor was having trouble keeping up. 

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #35 –
Mike,
Do you have any suggestions on a reliable regulator to use there. (shown in your picture) I believe is it used to regulate the pressure to raise the front end to keep it somewhat in sync with the rear, but I may be wrong. 
I have replaced it a few times in the last 5 years.  I have been using the ones sold at Lowes and Home Depot, but they just don't seem to last for me.
Mark & Bev
2001 U295 36' Slide
Cummins ISC 8.3 350HP
Build #5802
Jeep Wrangler Toad

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #36 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
A while back Chuck did a great write up on replacing the pressure protection valves...
In case anyone is interested, link below:

Air Tank Valves R&R

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #37 –
Quote from: MarkC –
Do you have any suggestions on a reliable regulator to use there.

Mark,

The short answer is No.  I have tried those listed along with Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, Rural King, and Northern Tool. The last ones from Northern have held up better than others. Now your results may be different as I might have just got lucky. I can't keep the one for the step and step cover from leaking so I have several that I carry.

Mike

@ Chuck,
I can always count on you when my IT head is not available.  Thanks for posting that thread.
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #38 –
Well the beast came to life this afternoon after a terrible time in getting the fuel system primed up. When we brought this coach home it had a bad shake/vibration that we couldn't put our finger on during the trip. Once we finally got the engine running we let it idle for quite a while doing several checks on various things we worked on. During this idle time the engine ran smother than anytime during the trip. Engine must have been pulling air in due to all the cracks in the suction line causing the rough running. Hope everything from here is downhill as those fuel lines have whipped us.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #39 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
Well the beast came to life this afternoon after a terrible time in getting the fuel system primed up. When we brought this coach home it had a bad shake/vibration that we couldn't put our finger on during the trip. Once we finally got the engine running we let it idle for quite a while doing several checks on various things we worked on. During this idle time the engine ran smother than anytime during the trip. Engine must have been pulling air in due to all the cracks in the suction line causing the rough running. Hope everything from here is downhill as those fuel lines have whipped us.

Mike
very rewarding moment

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #40 –
Yes after a couple of weeks it was nice to hear the engine come to life.  Now to figure out why the HWH is stuck in travel mode which keeps us from being able to manually raise or dump.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #41 –
When that happened to mine, the plug had fallen out of the back of the dash controller.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #42 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
Now to figure out why the HWH is stuck in travel mode which keeps us from being able to manually raise or dump.
When you are messing with the HWH panel, after you push the AIR button one time, what panel lights are turned on?

Since you say it is stuck in travel mode, I assume the TRAVEL light is showing, but are any other lights on?

This subject is covered in Part 3 of REPAIR STEPS in the HWH 600 SERIES SERVICE MANUAL linked below:

https://hwhcorp.com/ml11148.pdf
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #43 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
When you are messing with the HWH panel, after you push the AIR button one time, what panel lights are turned on?

Since you say it is stuck in travel mode, I assume the TRAVEL light is showing, but are any other lights on?

This subject is covered in Part 3 of REPAIR STEPS in the HWH 600 SERIES SERVICE MANUAL linked below:

https://hwhcorp.com/ml11148.pdf


Chuck
The only light that comes on and stays on is the travel mode green light. No other lights are on. No buttons are working at all. Cannot raise. level or dump. Even with the #11 fuse pulled, the green travel light is still on. This is odd because the trip home, HWH controls seemed to work as it should. The only things we've done since the tri[p home was pull the tank, change fuel lines,  Mike rebuilt the rear six-pack, change the Pure Air Plus, both isolation valves, replaced one of the hydraulic fan motor seals. Everything we fixed all works fine now but now the HWH has decided to start acting up for some reason.
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #44 –
Wouldn't hurt to try Chuck's (craneman) suggestion - disconnect the plug on the back of the HWH touch pad panel, check for corroded or bent pins in the plug.  If everything looks good, reconnect the plug making sure it is firmly seated.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #45 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
Wouldn't hurt to try Chuck's (craneman) suggestion - disconnect the plug on the back of the HWH touch pad panel, check for corroded or bent pins in the plug.  If everything looks good, reconnect the plug making sure it is firmly seated.


Thanks, we'll give that a try. I know Mike is working hard trying to figure this out so hopefully, the solution will be right around the corner.
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #46 –
Quote from: Zack & Ginny –
hopefully, the solution will be right around the corner.

 Me 2

Mike

The com cord on the back of the pad is the next thing on my list, then out comes the troubleshooting book.

Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #47 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
Me 2

Mike

The com cord on the back of the pad is the next thing on my list, then out comes the troubleshooting book.



Mike
Tried calling HWH this morning, no dice. They said their techs are backed up 2 weeks and would not allow me to break in line and speak to one. So, I'm completely of no use on this issue. She said all they can do is have me send in my control panel and board for repair & return but we don't know if my panel & board are actually defective yet so I don't know. I'm still searching online for anyone else with an issue like this but nothing so far.
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #48 –
Quote from: craneman –
When that happened to mine, the plug had fallen out of the back of the dash controller.

craneman
Provided the plug has fallen off the back of mine, would the green travel still be lit up?
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: The Project Coach

Reply #49 –
Yes, the green light only tells you that you have enough air pressure to travel, nothing to do with having the correct ride height.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean