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Topic: Water Heater (Read 811 times) previous topic - next topic

Water Heater

Hey guys. Among many of the updates I am making on my coach, the water heater is one of priority for me. Mine is the original but since I have always taken long hot showers I would like to upgrade it to something better. To be clear, we do not camp off the grid, we do not camp anywhere there is not shorepower.  Having said that, I am interested in a tankless electric water heater. My former boss bought a new 5th wheel 3-4 years ago that came with one of these and he absolutely loved it.

Has anyone installed one of these in your coach and if so, how do you like it?



Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: Water Heater

Reply #1 –
Before you order pay close attention to the power requirements! Most will take 240v X 2 or more circuits. Propane may be much more practical for an rv.   
Bruce, Linda, and Macy
Zoey RIP 1/20/19
1999 U295 40' build #5400
2017 silver Jeep Wrangler, 1260 watts of solar on top
Moving around the country

Re: Water Heater

Reply #2 –
Quote from: bbeane –
Before you order pay close attention to the power requirements! Most will take 240v c2 circuits. Propane may be much more practical for an rv.
Good Advice!  We just replaced our water heater in our house.  We inquired about trying an electric tankless model, but the electrician said the 200 amp service at our house wasn't big enough to support one.  Those suckers draw a LOT of power.

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Water Heater

Reply #3 –
Didn't some coaches come with an instant hot appliance at the kitchen sink. I don't think they required anything but 110.
I know ours did, but i removed it long ago.  I'm now considering reinstalling one for those times when we are plugged in.

 Over the summer i did install an EXTRA 3 gallon electric water heater. It's working great and now gives me 13 gallons of hot which we really don't need but ,plugged in we now always have hot water. And i can shower without adding the propane heat although both of us can't.

  Is should add that our stock water heater is the 3way with the electric option but i was having SO much grief changing out the element that i burned out.  When I eventually have to pull the w heater for some other reason I'll switch out that element then ( this time not so dam tight ).

  Having said that didn't the 270s come with the electric option. If not maybe an upgraded 3 way w/heatr  ...
Robert and Susan
 1995 36' 280 WTBI 8.3 3060r
 1200 watts on the roof, 720 Ah of lithium's
 Build # 4637. Motorcade # 17599
        FMCA  # 451505
        18  Wrangler JLUR

Re: Water Heater

Reply #4 –
Thanks guys. I did not realize how much power they require. Maybe not such a good idea after all.
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: Water Heater

Reply #5 –
Chuck installed one. Maybe he'll chime in.  Last i heard he liked it, except for some slight gap in temp when you stop the shower in the middle. 
Robert and Susan
 1995 36' 280 WTBI 8.3 3060r
 1200 watts on the roof, 720 Ah of lithium's
 Build # 4637. Motorcade # 17599
        FMCA  # 451505
        18  Wrangler JLUR

Re: Water Heater

Reply #6 –
If it was an option they did'nt all come with it.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Water Heater

Reply #7 –
I haven't seen an electric instant heater that really worked, we see them when we're in England and even running on 240 volt service they are substandard.
88 Grand Villa 36' ORED 3208 (throwaway)Cat.
 Build # 3150
Happiness is the maximum agreement of reality and desire.

Re: Water Heater

Reply #8 –
We have on demand heaters in house but they pull 54amps requires 60a breaker at 240v  a little much for a 50a motor home
Chris
1999 U 320 DGFE
Build Number 5523
Chris & Elka Lang
In the field, Lonoke AR

Re: Water Heater

Reply #9 –
I would caution against a change to a fundamental system that would make the coach "different-featured" than standard/expected. 

You may not plan to ever sell the coach, but limiting the user conditions (needing to camp pole-to-pole) or having a substantially non-standard coach system that most RVers (and RV techs) are unfamiliar with narrows the resale market and potentially lowers the resale value.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Water Heater

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Zack & Ginny –


Has anyone installed one of these in your coach and if so, how do you like it?

Not in a coach, but had a 240 volt one while stationed in Germany.  Full volume showers were never hot - just warm (warm enough) . I would not want one myself.
Dan - Full timing since 2009
2003 U320 40' Tag 2 slide

Re: Water Heater

Reply #11 –
Thinking I will just stay with what i have.  ;)
Zack & Ginny Methvin
1998 U270 36' WTFE
Build# 5242 (E-25 code)
FMCA# 548390
Longview, Texas

Re: Water Heater

Reply #12 –
Hi.  While not an electric model (which I would never have in an RV or sticks and bricks for that matter), I have installed a propane on-demand ware heater as a replacement to the 10 gal 3 way that came as factory original on my U295.  For one, I too prefer the option of unlimited shower time and unlimited back to back showers with no wait time to reheat the tank.  Second, IMO Atwood water heaters are substandard in every way, yet that was what Foretravel chose to put in for no good reason that I can tell.

In any case, the Furion on demand that I installed as a replacement is beyond my expectations in every regard.  Works well, low cost per gallon used, easily installed into the existing cutout for the Atwood it replaced, maintains temp like a charm and easy peasy to winterize if needed as no tank and no WH bypass to mess with.  FWIW, it would be the first thing I swapped in for any future unit I own, even before the residential fridge.

Bill
95 36' U295  CAI, build #4757
—>formerly homed in the midwest, now mobile again,
      mid-atlantic for the present.

Re: Water Heater

Reply #13 –
Quote from: Stonyfork –
Hi.  While not an electric model (which I would never have in an RV or sticks and bricks for that matter), I have installed a propane on-demand ware heater as a replacement to the 10 gal 3 way that came as factory original on my U295.  For one, I too prefer the option of unlimited shower time and unlimited back to back showers with no wait time to reheat the tank.  Second, IMO Atwood water heaters are substandard in every way, yet that was what Foretravel chose to put in for no good reason that I can tell.

In any case, the Furion on demand that I installed as a replacement is beyond my expectations in every regard.  Works well, low cost per gallon used, easily installed into the existing cutout for the Atwood it replaced, maintains temp like a charm and easy peasy to winterize if needed as no tank and no WH bypass to mess with.  FWIW, it would be the first thing I swapped in for any future unit I own, even before the residential fridge.

Bill


Forgot to add the Furion on-demand unit has easily one of the lowest flow rates required to trigger the water heater to start heating that can be found among all propane on-demand water heater currently available, which is important if not hooked to city water.  Truma brand is excellent as well but difficult in terms of sourcing and Truma is only available via authorized dealers and will sell not for self installation last I was aware. 

Bill
95 36' U295  CAI, build #4757
—>formerly homed in the midwest, now mobile again,
      mid-atlantic for the present.

Re: Water Heater

Reply #14 –
Bill, that's a very useful review. Can you post a photo of your install?
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.

Re: Water Heater

Reply #15 –
I replaced mine 5 years ago with a Girard II tankless. It has worked flawlessly the entire time. Fits in the old spot and need to modify the cover. Sips propane and I made it run off the installed switches. Placed the temperature setting head in the bathroom. When hooked up, can take an hour long shower at 101 or 102 degrees and it's awesome.
AKA Chuck
1993 U280 40' WTB, Build 4345, CUM 8.3 "Falcor", 2010 Honda CRV TOAD (Spock), 970W solar on roof
Full-Time traveler between Quartzsite AZ, Longview WA, Ellendale ND, and Lake City SD
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Re: Water Heater

Reply #16 –
 I built a hot dog trailer  and used a cheapish  Tankless heater. Worked swell.  I would consider one for my bus . Gas should be there but the foot print is vertical and may need some engineering under the sink.
 Check for flow rates . 

Re: Water Heater

Reply #17 –
Quote from: Realmccoy –
Bill, that's a very useful review. Can you post a photo of your install?

I'll have to go back and see if I have any pics from when I did it in Sept 2022. It's not really noticeable on the outside of the coach.

The unit itself is much smaller and lighter than the Atwood 3way 10 gal unit that was there but as Furion sells a couple different doors for the water heater it's possible to use the existing cut-out for the install requiring no mods to the outside except a door swap as the exhaust ventilation opening is completely different. 

The existing cold and hot water connections are used though I added off the shelf from Home Depot flex lines so if I did need to pull the unit out for any future repairs I could do so without having to disconnect the water lines.  I used the existing propane connection but again added a flex line and local propane shut off valve because why not...having a local shut off is always handy vs having to shut down a whole system for a relatively local repair.

And of course the 12V connections are already there from the DSI set-up used by the old Atwood.  I didn't need the 120V connection used by the electric side of the old Atwood so I converted that to an additional wall outlet for the adjoining storge bay (which can still be shut-off with the old electric element WH shut off switch at the bed by the electrical panel).

As the engine coolant circulates thru the 3 way units (i.e. Motoraid) in both Atwood and Suburban and which the Furion doesn't have, I just clamped them off and captured what had been in the loop in the old Atwood to know how much, if any to add back to the engine coolant system, which turned out be less than a gallon.  Then I just connected to each other the coolant lines that had been connected to the old Atwood recompleting that loop but external to the new Furion WH. 

I chose not to install the control pad for the Furion inside the coach but placed it on the outer panel covering the fresh and grey water tanks right next to the water heater.  As the Furion is connected to the same 12V wires/circuit that the Atwood was, I am able to turn on/off power to the Furion using the existing 12V water heater on/off switch at the sink in the Kichen/Galley inside the coach. Note, the temperature you want for the hot water is set on the Furion control pad.  It takes some experimenting to find the ideal temp for your tastes.  For me that was 108 degrees F. (For reference, Atwood WH generally maintain a tank temperature of 130F, excepting the ones utilizing the on unit mixer, and Suburban WH 140F).  Once my preferred temp was set on the Furion it's very efficient at maintaining that so having the control pad in a storage bay outside the coach has not been a problem. I prefer it because it keeps unwanted adjustments by guests or others from occurring.  If you have a wall thermostat at home, you will read my meaning here correctly. 😏

With any on demand unit (at least that I have used, RV or whole house units) you will find maximum performance is achieved when there is little to no disruption in pressure or flow through the unit, which means it will function better when there are no other "draws" on the system, especially in the RV application when using a water pump and fill tank as I generally do.  This just means no washing dishes or flushing toilets while someone is showering but that will also, to a lesser degree, remain true even with the tank WHs in a travel trailer or motorhome.

Overall, it is no more complicated than swapping in a new Atwood of the same model as was there would be.  In fact, it's easier because the Furion is a smaller unit over all and with significantly less depth so there is more space in the entire process for hands, heads and tools which is not normally the case in RV repairs.

For those wondering, it takes maybe 5-12 secs give or take depending on the incoming water temp whether from the fresh water tank or city water and the distance to the faucet from the WH to get the hot water upon opening the tap.  Mind you, I generally do not experience water temps under 38-40 degrees so can't speak to that.  In the summer wher temps in the fresh water tank can match the air temp it's closer to the 5 sec range.

I'll have to search for any pics from the install but prob didn't take many (unlike the skylight repair which. remember taking many photos of).

Bill

95 36' U295  CAI, build #4757
—>formerly homed in the midwest, now mobile again,
      mid-atlantic for the present.