Re: Residential fridge in stall issues and questions
Reply #5 –
I would start with downloading and reading the factory instructions for installing your specific fridge in a home. It will list the minimum amount of space on top, bottom and sides for proper airflow. Beware that your coils may be at the bottom, back or enclosed in the side wall of your fridge. It will also specify the temperature range of the environment in which it is installed. Then measure how much airspace you have as installed and look to see if the top and bottom vents for your original fridge have been modified at the roof and rear vents. Absorption fridges all require exterior airflow, a chimney of sorts. Some residential fridges are not even recommended for your unconditioned garage, so temperature can be an issue.
Once you have this information gathered, buy some beer and invite a couple friends who build street cars or have remodeled a house or two to sit down and brainstorm how to secure your fridge and provide for adequate ventilation. An engineer who mows his own yard and any welder would also have some ideas. You may end up pulling it out to reinstall properly, but at least it's already in the coach which is a big part of the work and if you get the other guys involved they might help you.
I installed my own because many rv shops are not willing to sit down and read the instructions or waste much thought on how to secure it. Each fridge model and each coach is unique. I spent 10 to 20 hours studying my install, probably more. Part of the problem is you don't fully know what is the space around the fridge until you remove the old one, or how it's supported. Even with proper planning it's still design as you go.