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Topic: Making Splices in 12V Wiring (Read 1182 times) previous topic - next topic

Making Splices in 12V Wiring

[move][/move]I find the thin tubular splices for use with 12V wiring to be very difficult to use.  And, apparently, I am not alone judging from the condition of the four splices I removed from the wires on my old porch light.

I do have a tool for making these crimps, but it is just not that easy to use.  So -- I was wondering if it would be okay to use a pair of Vise Grips to completely close the open ends of these tubes as well as compressing about an additional 3/16ths inch of each connector?

Comments and suggestions, please. 
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #1 –
George, sounds okay.  Just make sure the wire insulation is not disturbed or compromised as you crimp, and that there is no exposed copper from the wire.
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #2 –
If you are talking about a Butt Splice

You need to crimp the center where the wire is electrically to get a good contact.
If you are crimping the end where there is plastic and the wire insulation is thicker,
it may prevent a good connection.
You don't want a connection that will build up resistance over time & cause intermittent failure,

The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #3 –
I like to use "Yellow Jacket" splices from ELK.  They can pierce through the insulation, so they don't require stripping of the insulation, although I always do.  They work on 18-30 gauge wire, so you are a bit more limited on what you can put in them (of course like most splices you can often get away with a larger size wire).  They have a small opening in the top so you can get your DVM probe in there to test the connection as well.

Elk also has a Gel filled one that is good for areas with some moisture, the are white in color so they don't have a cute name.

They crush easily with pliers since they are made of brass.

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #4 –
The phone company use to use them all the time on their 24 gauge telco wire. I used the silicon filled ones in my business. As you said the top is great for metering your connections without taking it apart.
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #5 –
I am learning new things almost everytime I come to either Forum, and my learning is enhanced here with the incusion of images within the body of the message.  I really appreciate the sharing of information.  I never am afraid to ask any kind of question no matter how basic.  Thanks to all.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
The phone company use to use them all the time on their 24 gauge telco wire. I used the silicon filled ones in my business. As you said the top is great for metering your connections without taking it apart.
Shhh, not to load.  Don't want anyone from Verizon to find out my source of splicing materials.
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #7 –
Butt splice and other crimp-on connections can be difficult to get right.  The problem with the ELK connectors is they only go up to 18 gauge and they are not "in-line".  Many wires in a coach are larger than that.  There are several ways to get the job done.  First, you can use non-insulated connectors and solder them making sure to put heat shrink tubing on first.  Second, use a different crimper that might work better for you such as the Xcelite 104CGV.  See the photo below.  Which ever method you use tug on the wires when done to make sure every thing is o.k.  You might practice first to get a better feel for the job.  Even though I make many crimp-on connections I occasionally have to redo one.
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #8 –
George , all of my guys use a crimper that crimps on the top end of the pliers past the hinge ,it gives us more leverage.Look in the electrical dept there at Lowe's.CRS cant remember the brand name.should cost in the $ 25.00 to $ 35.00 range.
Ron In ICT
I.CW.
99 U320-40

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #9 –
Spend the extra money and get a ratcheting crimper. You will get a more
consistent crimp. They can even be calibrated. We used to be required to
use calibrated crimpers for nuclear work, and certified for crimping the
'big stuff' - like 4160V reactor coolant pump cables.
Now I'm just certifiable...

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George , all of my guys use a crimper that crimps on the top end of the
pliers past the hinge ,it gives us more leverage.Look in the electrical
dept there at Lowe's.CRS cant remember the brand name.should cost in the
$ 25.00 to $ 35.00 range.

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The ForeForum Team.
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Making Splices in 12V Wiring

Reply #10 –
Dave,

I, too, have ratcheting crimpers (Ideal, similar to AMP) but I find they do not work well with some of the crimp terminals that are not the same size from end to end.  It has proven to be very hard for me to find the proper crimp terminals here in Houston.  We had the correct terminals at Texas Instruments and the correct calibrated crimper to work with but TI ordered them by the tens of thousands, not the ten or so that I need.  That is the reason I use the Xcelite tool which also works well with the uninsulated butt splices when I need to put them in a bundle.  While the disadvantage to the Xcelite is that there is less leverage, the advantage is that it crimps the terminal with a nested U instead of a flying saucer shape which seems to me to be less prone to being under crimped.
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP