RV garage

Topic: RV garage (Read 4185 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: RV garage

Reply #25 – March 31, 2019, 04:58:26 pm

I like the reasons for recommending the thicker wire, but it will make the wiring a little more complicated, since the plug in I have is 120v that used to go to the electric dryer (I took it out, since we use gas). I have been using a 25' 30A extension cord to the rig and it has worked well with the AC on. When we have guests staying in the coach, we will have it parked between the house and RV garage. The only requirement I have for additional outlets are for keeping my motorcycles charged. For that matter, I could have them plugged into a outlet on the RV when it is parked. If I were to replace the wiring all the way to the breaker box, I would look into a 50A set up if I have available amperage at the box.

Re: RV garage

Reply #26 – March 31, 2019, 06:11:32 pm

With regard to restrictions and keeping the angry torch carrying villagers away, this has been a concern. The CCRs have expired and people have been doing their own thing for awhile. Appearance is the reason we are going with stucco and we will try to make it as attractive as possible, using palm trees and accents, but it's going up.

Re: RV garage

Reply #27 – March 31, 2019, 09:00:51 pm

Sven, I think if you are going to going to run cable underground to the barn and connecting it (I am pretty sure it would have to be a herd wired connection in a box, not a plug) to an exisiting circuit the entire length from the barn to the original CB panel needs to be used for wire size. If you have two breaker slots avaailable then a 220v 30 amp circuit would give you lots more flexibility in the long run. A 50 amp circuit pushes wire size and cost up fast.

Re: RV garage

Reply #28 – March 31, 2019, 09:34:52 pm

I agree with Roger add another conducter underground for 240 v future, I don't think you can run a neutral to a sub panel for 120 vac only anyway, so your back to a ground rod. Check with your electrician. Electric vehicle charging stations may be an asset also soon.

Re: RV garage

Reply #29 – March 31, 2019, 10:11:17 pm

I put the coach house/shop on a separate 200 amp service as our residential prime time demand (money grab) charges are very hefty from 2:00 till 8:00, once you go over the base limit. Solar on your coach house roof might be another consideration.

Re: RV garage

Reply #30 – April 02, 2019, 04:49:08 pm

Wiring a sub panel in the barn requires a wire with two hots, one neutral and one ground wire from the main panel
The sub panel requires that the ground and neutral wires are separated and isolated - the neutral buss bonding screw needs to be removed (it's a dark colored screw) and a small buss gets added to the box wall for the ground wire
This gives you a fully functional panel allowing for regular receptacles a lighting as well as your RV hook up.

Re: RV garage

Reply #31 – April 05, 2019, 12:39:36 pm

Thank you for all the suggestions - I've learned a number of things. I'm taking bids from electricians for the job. I've decided to go with 50A 240v supply with interior and exterior 50A receptacles. An sub panel in the garage will allow me to put in lights and any 20A outlets I might need to run air compressor and tools. I'm also going to upgrade my 200A main panel with new CBs though it isn't necessary. I just don't like old electrical stuff.

Re: RV garage

Reply #32 – April 05, 2019, 09:26:05 pm

I don't think you will regret this wise decision. A few more bucks, but a decent flexable infrastructure. That may allow that extra roof area to support a solar array, and if that array leak a few drips no big deal

Re: RV garage

Reply #33 – April 05, 2019, 10:31:18 pm

Good choice, Sven. It adds value to the barn now and for future uses of the building. I like having a coach plug in point when the coach is inside and a second one that I can reach when the coach is outside.

Re: RV garage

Reply #34 – April 06, 2019, 01:00:37 am

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – April 05, 2019, 10:31:18 pm

Good choice, Sven. It adds value to the barn now and for future uses of the building. I like having a coach plug in point when the coach is inside and a second one that I can reach when the coach is outside.

I did the same, with a 20/30/50 amp connection box outside for summer work or a guest. Or a welder etc.

Re: RV garage

Reply #35 – April 06, 2019, 06:45:11 pm

I looked at adding 600 watts of solar on the roof of the barn (not the best angles) but enough to keep the batteries charged. I also have an off peak 240v 30 amp circuit that is unused. Power at 4¢ / kwh is OK,

Re: RV garage

Reply #36 – April 06, 2019, 07:57:02 pm

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – April 06, 2019, 06:45:11 pm

I looked at adding 600 watts of solar on the roof of the barn (not the best angles) but enough to keep the batteries charged. I also have an off peak 240v 30 amp circuit that is unused. Power at 4¢ / kwh is OK,

We have three rates with the "super off peak" being that time when everyone is normally asleep. I wonder if we can set up a timer for it to come on only during those times.

Re: RV garage

Reply #37 – April 06, 2019, 09:16:19 pm

Our off peak is on all the time except when the electric coop want to limit use. AC, Water Heater, and Unused circuit are all remotely controlled. They can turn off AC 15 min per hour when demand is high. Same with the unused circuit. And the water heater is on from 11PM to 4AM unless we ask them to leave it on. All power through the off peak meter is at the off peak rate.

Re: RV garage

Reply #38 – April 11, 2019, 10:26:56 am

Quote from: craneman – August 30, 2018, 06:32:06 pm

This was my solution on a limited budget. Over 20 years of use. new tarp every 7 to 8 years.

We are thinking of doing something similar next to our existing Pole barn. Do you mind sharing the manufacture? Size of pipe. I have looked at several and it is difficult to know what exactly I need. Also are you in the snow? We live in Wisconsin so I need something that will take the winters.

Re: RV garage

Reply #39 – April 11, 2019, 11:36:37 am

The manufacturer is Absolute Steel based in Phoenix. Another you might check is Versa Tube, which is very similar, for comparison. They were pretty good at designing the building to match my needs. In doing my research, I wanted to find someone with history and large accounts; in this case, they have done contracts with the US government. They can answer questions regarding snow loads, etc.
Metal Building Kits, Garages, & Carports by Absolute Steel

Re: RV garage

Reply #40 – May 07, 2019, 09:15:52 am

Quote from: Sven and Kristi – March 30, 2019, 04:28:51 pm

We are still going through the permitting process with the city on our garage. Because this is a high fire hazard area, I had to get an endorsement from the fire marshal (we were on a strike team together in '03) with regard to set back from the property line and house. Not only with my structure be metal and stucco (non combustible), but I also have install a sprinkler system, which requires me to change out the water meter to a 1" line ($1800). The final dimensions will be 20'x44' and just under 15' tall with 12x12 with a manual sectional roll up door.
I will put a sub panel in that will allow for 30A and some 20A outlets. Has anyone had experience wiring a detached garage? Presently I have a 30A outlet at the house (outside garage wall) that I use for charging the coach. I plan to put in a junction box there and running wire underground (22" deep if I remember). The distance will be about 25'. Will 10ga wire do? I need to put something down for the permit and will get an electrician later.

There are several voltage drop calculators online I did 120 single phase AC, 30 amp load, in copper wire at 25ft length and it says there is 1.172 volt drop with #8 and a 1.864 drop with #10. I hope that helps.

Re: RV garage

Reply #41 – May 07, 2019, 10:20:59 am

You might want to rethink this a bit, here's why. As far as tying onto an existing outlet with a junction box, you will need to remove the existing outlet unless it's wired for an extra 30 A capacity, unlikely. If possible, I'd recommend coming off your service panel with a new circuit, 50 amps. The difference in cost will be minuscule compared to 30 and utility will be much greater.

You will need an electrician involved, might as well get him over there to evaluate and give details for permit.

Re: RV garage

Reply #42 – May 07, 2019, 10:56:22 am

Sen, like I said at the start use 8ga wire.
JohnH

Re: RV garage

Reply #43 – May 07, 2019, 11:01:12 am

Foundation has been postponed for a few days due to unseasonal rain. Regarding the electrical hookup, we are still waiting for a meeting with an SDG&E rep. to get approval for upgrading our panel. There is an issue of the panel being located just above the gas meter (no longer meets code), but we might at least get an updated, if not upgraded, panel. The present 30A wiring will be replaced with appropriate wiring for the supply and distance. We aren't cutting corners on the project, since that usually results in problems or limitations later.

Re: RV garage

Reply #44 – May 07, 2019, 11:19:00 am

Hopefully if the rains are heavy and lots of it you have not dug the ground for the footings. Heavy constant rain will soften the base of it meaning it will not be suitable for concrete to be poured unless adding gravel or? To strengthen that base.
JohnH

Re: RV garage

Reply #45 – May 07, 2019, 02:49:37 pm

Always use a larger size cable, why not run 4 wire #6 to allow for 'future' choice changes that could include 50-amp and almost eliminate any voltage drop.

Re: RV garage

Reply #46 – May 07, 2019, 04:23:27 pm

Wire size depends on the distance from main panel to sub panel as it is run, not a straight line, not the distance from one building to another. My barn is less than 8 ft from the garage where the main panel is. Wire length was more than 80 ft. Bigger wire than the minimum for the amps and distance is always a good choice.

Re: RV garage

Reply #47 – May 07, 2019, 04:46:03 pm

I will put in my 2 cents. If me I would run 3 # 4 & 1#8 copper wire to a small panel in your new building. Install a 80 or 90 amp breaker in your main panel. Add a 50A plug near where your coach power will be when in the building with 3#6 & 1 #8 to a 50A breaker . Then add some 120v outlets with 3-12g wire and put on 20 amp breaker. Make sure the plugs are gfi protected.

With the panel in your new building it will allow you to add more outlets at a later date.

Re: RV garage

Reply #48 – May 07, 2019, 06:27:45 pm

Check your local electrical code. A sub-panel in your outbuilding will probably have to have its own main breaker. Generally the main breaker in the sub panel and the breaker in the main panel should be the same size as I recall. Electrical codes may be different where you live as may the rules about getting electrical permits and inspections. Wire sizes are specified by amps and length. No guessing allowed.

Re: RV garage

Reply #49 – May 07, 2019, 08:08:56 pm

I'm relying on the judgement of an electrician to put in the supply line and subpanel. A city inspector will ensure that it is up to code. My main reason for going with a pro is that I don't want to mess with the main panel. SDG&E got back to me, denying any improvements to the original (obsolete) panel because of the proximity to the gas meter. If I want to put in a new (exchanging "like for like") panel with new circuit breakers, I will be subject to the current code and move the panel about 4' away. The only exception is if it is an emergency due to a dangerous situation. I explained that as a firefighter for 30 years, we took preventative measures, rather than wait until it became an emergency. I also added that if I ever had an electrical fire at the panel in the future, I would be talking to them (inference being "through a lawyer"), since they denied my attempt at improving the safety of the panel. They are going to get back to me on this.

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