Re: Broken metal fuel line
Reply #7 –
I have removed and installed several of the banjo fittings on my engine, when replacing the overflow valve and installing fuel pressure gauge, plus when I replaced the leaking fuel line. I always use new washers on those fittings. I just snug the retaining bolt up with a short wrench until it "feels" pretty tight (to me). Have not had any of them leak, or even seep a little. Sorry - I don't have a recommended torque setting. I think it would be difficult to get a torque wrench into that area of the engine compartment (at the right angle).
All the fuel lines and fittings that are upstream of the injection pump are part of the "low pressure" fuel circuit. The pressure they see is determined by two factors: how much pressure the lift pump (transfer pump) puts out, and at what pressure the overflow valve opens. The pressure in these lines could run anywhere from zero psi (with a faulty/broken overflow valve) to maybe around 40-50 psi (I'm just guessing on the max possible lift pump deadhead pressure with overflow valve stuck completely closed).
What I'm saying is, the banjo fittings don't see any really high fuel pressure, so don't need to be super tight.