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Topic: RV barn update (Read 4918 times) previous topic - next topic

RV barn update

After being tied up in the city planning department we finally have the permit and have broken ground.  Concrete pour is scheduled for Friday, weather permitting.  20'x44'

Re: RV barn update

Reply #1 –
Are you going to be able to at least stub out a sewer dump piping incase you want to add a sewer lift station in the future?

Mike

Re: RV barn update

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Pamela & Mike –
Are you going to be able to at least stub out a sewer dump piping incase you want to add a sewer lift station in the future?

Mike

X2 I have put the 4" PVC with duct tape over the end about 1/2 " below surface of concrete so inspector could check everything out to their content and I could come back later to do the drain.  "Some things they just don't need to know"
Just my 2cnets worth
Chris

Re: RV barn update

Reply #3 –
Sven, if you are using sliding doors and still can make sure the slab goes out under the doors not just where they are when closed but also where they are are open.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Chris m lang –
X2 I have put the 4" PVC with duct tape over the end about 1/2 " below surface of concrete so inspector could check everything out to their content and I could come back later to do the drain.  "Some things they just don't need to know"
Just my 2cnets worth
Chris
I did the same only 3" pvc to match the house., Have not gotten around to extending it yet. Plumbing inspector would not have allowed it.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
Sven, if you are using sliding doors and still can make sure the slab goes out under the doors not just where they are when closed but also where they are are open.
There will be a 3' landing (or "apron") in front of each door, per code, that slope away from the door, and the pad will be 6" longer than the building, allowing for 3" on each end.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #6 –
My sewer clean out is in a front yard depression, which I have used to empty my tanks.  The drive way and buried utility lines (elec., gas, telephone and cable) lay between it and the "barn".  With the distance, I would have to dig down a ways to get a decent drop.  Instead, I may put in the drivway, which will be redone before long.  Since I have to channel the 1" sprinkler line across it, I'm glad that I didn't do that earlier.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #7 –
There is a slope next to the new garage where I could drop a sewer pipe down to my neighbors yard.  It would be short and have a decent drop and it might be good for the ice plant! >:D

Re: RV barn update

Reply #8 –
The foundation pour is scheduled for Tuesday.  We are using #4 (1/2") rebar with a 6" slab.  I was asked about grooves.  I would like to get some opinions on the necessity or desirability of having grooves.  Pro:  Reduces chance of hairline cracks.  Con: Not as easy to sweep, collects dirt, and a real bugger when sliding around on a creeper.  I'm interested in hearing from those of you with RV garage floors and what your experience has been.
Regarding the electrical:  We are putting in a 60A panel with 6ga 4strand wire, interior and exterior 50A outlets and 20A CBs for smaller outlets and overhead lights.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
The foundation pour is scheduled for Tuesday.  We are using #4 (1/2") rebar with a 6" slab.
What is your quoted price per square foot for the finished slab, if you don't mind me asking?  Trying to get a feel for roughly how bad it would hurt to do one for our poor old coach.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #10 –
My shop (coach house) has a fairly smooth floor,  it has spacers running the length of building between pours but none running across. My elevation drops 1" from east to west so when I want to power wash the floor the water runs out easily.  If I were to build another one I would do the same, I like the smooth floor.  When the porch for my house was poured they grooved it and it is a pain when sweeping and I still had hair-line cracks.
good luck with your build and do what you like best on floor because you are the one dealing with it!
Chris

Re: RV barn update

Reply #11 –
Chuck, in Arkansas six months ago I was quoted 100 Sq Ft
Chris

Re: RV barn update

Reply #12 –
I did something like this in the shop.  When it is all done there is no gap but a thin plastic strip embedded in to the concrete.  I used 5000psi concrete with 1/2" rebar (don't recall spacing) 5" thick. 

https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/construction/controlling-cracks-with-plastic-joints_o

We saw cut the smooth steel machined troweled basement floor about 1/4" deep in a 3' grid, acid etched and stained it.  Grouted all of the grooves with black flexible grout.  Very shallow indents.  Looks like giant marble tile. 

After the concrete has had time to fully cure seal it with a good sealer.

PS110 Siloxane Water Repellent WB-10 Penetrating Sealer (5 gal.) - Concrete...

Concrete for the Barn Slab including site prep, block work and sealing was about $5/sqft.  8 years ago.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #13 –
my 4 1/2" concrete slab and footings was $4.75 per sqft. installed. and that does not include the patio and pad at man door.  I think Chris must have fat fingered his keyboard.  Driveway approach was also $4.75.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #14 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
What is your quoted price per square foot for the finished slab, if you don't mind me asking?  Trying to get a feel for roughly how bad it would hurt to do one for our poor old coach.
About $7.50-8.00/sq ft. based on the 44.6 x 20 and apron (slabs) in front of the three doors.  Total cost of foundation was around $6500.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #15 –
Chuck check with some local concrete flatwork guys, as always location, location, location, as your price may vary quite considerably.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #16 –
Quote from: Sven and Kristi –
The foundation pour is scheduled for Tuesday.  We are using #4 (1/2") rebar with a 6" slab.  I was asked about grooves.  I would like to get some opinions on the necessity or desirability of having grooves.  Pro:  Reduces chance of hairline cracks.  Con: Not as easy to sweep, collects dirt, and a real bugger when sliding around on a creeper.  I'm interested in hearing from those of you with RV garage floors and what your experience has been.
Regarding the electrical:  We are putting in a 60A panel with 6ga 4strand wire, interior and exterior 50A outlets and 20A CBs for smaller outlets and overhead lights.


Sawn grooves are just you pre-cracking your concrete.  Assuming you have stable, non expansive, compacted select fill under the slab, a competent crew who makes sure the rebar is properly embedded in the concrete rather than lying under it, and who places rather than pours the concrete i.e., proper slump with no extra water for workability, you can most likely do without the sawn grooves in a slab this size.  Also, keeping the slab wet for a few days will help prevent surface cracks.  That said, all this requires a pro team doing the work, most likely under the eye of an engineer who checks each load for slump. It also requires either good all around access for concrete trucks or a pump to help deal with the stiff mix.  A rare thing these days on a residential job. 

One thing you can do which will almost certainly preclude cracking is to add fibermesh to your mix.  I also am a fan of, for a shop area especially, having the finisher "burn" the finish with power trowel leaving you with a slick finish.  This also helps prevent surface cracks which can appear while the slab is initially curing. 

Like Roger said, grooving and then filling the grooves is a good compromise.  I'd use a pourable caulk, Sika makes one.  That's the rubber stuff you see in sidewalk joints.  Good choice on your electrical btw. 

Re: RV barn update

Reply #17 –
Post #11 was wrong it was suppose to say 100  Cu Yard
Chris

Re: RV barn update

Reply #18 –
Wow, at 6" thick, Chris' pour would have covered 5,400 sqft.  50'x108'.  I want that barn.  There was probably a perimeter beam and load footings in there too so maybe a bit smaller.✅

Chris says it is 50x80.  I can only dream.

Re: RV barn update

Reply #19 –
My current barn is 60x50 and I had the rebar and high psi (i don't remember what it is now) poured.  It did not have gloves cut in it and it has not yet cracked. I am sure it will someday but right now I am happy with the pour.  We were pretty careful in secluding our builder and general contractor as it went up with the house. He has a farm and has built a lot of big structures.  I am thinking of putting epoxy down now but I will think on it a bit longer.