Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 13, 2025 ...

I just put in a 10 x 40 slab for the coach to sit on, and we are not allowed here to have a garage or barn. It is 5" with 1/2 rebar in 16" squares I did all the forming and steel and the concrete is machine trowel finish and I have kept a sprinkler on it for over a week unless it rained and 32 mpi strength concrete. Cost here for 7 cu yds was $160.00 each yd and $550 to lay and finish. I had a plastic expansion strip every 10 ft of length and was laid 2 weeks ago and as we will be gone for at least 3 more weeks it will be 5 weeks before the coach goes on it.
I am going to do a latex finish on top as I have done with garages when building homes, and what I do is mix  paint with 25%water and apply then let dry then another layer at 10%water then a final coat of concrete paint. This will have soaked into the concrete and never wear off. No oil will stain the slab and allways washes clean.
Tried tested and proven for me.
JohnH

Until you need to sweep it, then it looks great.  It can be quite handsome in itself or stained, built several houses with it to rave reviews.  But it all depends on the skill of the finisher. Or the eye of the beholder I suppose.

Sorry I was speaking about polished concrete in large commercial multistory buildings, small residential construction may yield decent results

I just put in a 10 x 40 slab for the coach to sit on, and we are not allowed here to have a garage or barn.
JohnH

I had never heard of a vapor barrier contributing to surface cracks.  I asked the contractor about it and keeping it wet, but he said it would not make any difference.  The half inch rebar and six inches of slab should minimize any cracking and if any occur, it would likely be a hairline crack, cosmetic at worst.  I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out: it is uniformly white and very smooth.  I would like to more about sealants and floor paint to prevent oil absorption. 

I talked to Absolute Steel and it looks like my building should arrive the week of the 17th.  With the floor in, I'm getting antsy.

After the concrete has had time to fully cure seal it with a good sealer.

PS110 Siloxane Water Repellent WB-10 Penetrating Sealer (5 gal.) - Concrete...

The reason for my sharing the process (from beginning to end) is for anyone contemplating such a project.

Sven, I see you didn't use a vapor barrier.  That means your slab is very  unlikely to develop surface cracks, believe it or not.  That's one reason  driveways typically don't develop surface cracks and house slabs do.  No idea of what the mechanics are other than possibly the barrier inhibits hydration below, and surface cures more quickly leading to stress in  the surface.

The purpose of a vapor barrier, somewhat misnamed, is to prevent the ground from absorbing the water out of the concrete and interfereing with the hydration process.

The purpose of a vapor barrier, somewhat misnamed, is to prevent the ground from absorbing the water out of the concrete and interfereing with the hydration process.

"Any chance your erection contractor could unload and place the materials where they want them? "

We're the erection team.  I want to see how far I can go doing it with a little help from Kristi and a couple of friends during critical phases.  I can get an off road forklift with telescoping boom for the rafter/stud sections and a scissor lift for working overhead.  I've talked to a couple of contractors who won't touch the project.

On a night, with a full moon, at midnight, throw some blue pills at it; it will erect itself.