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Topic: Voltage problem revisited (Read 2889 times) previous topic - next topic

Voltage problem revisited

I'm tired, it's late and I will peruse this tomorrow.
When I hooked up my power cord to my 50 amp Progressive Industries ..EMS, it read each leg at 118. This is a brand new service pedestal with no known issues. Went into the coach and NOTHING shows on my display??? I needed to keep batteries charged so I checked the adjacent 30 amp outlets on the same pedestal, put on my pigtail and plugged into it for the night. It lite up the display now showing 113 volts each leg. The POSSIBILITY exists that I miss wired the new plug I put on in Texas How do I proceed testing continuity tomorrow.? Do I test at the transfer switch under the bed? I don' t understand how I get no reading at 50 amp but I do at the 30 amp outlet. BTW...this is a standard house outlet, not the 30 amp we normally see in RV parks.
Any ideas? Barry? Thanks
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #1
Glenn,  sounds like your EMS is portable, which is fine.  I assume coach does the same when plugged in without EMS.

The 50amp plug has two hot prongs, one neutral (center), one ground (round).  The 2 hots are powered from separately from the pedestal.  The 50 to 30 to 20 amp pigtails take the single hot from the 20 or 30 amp outlet and sends it to both 50 amp hot prongs.

BTW, the household outlet is 20 or 15 amp, not 30 amp.

Seems that if pigtails work, and the pedestal is ok, both should work the same.

One way to test with meter is to partially connect 50 amp male plug so some of the brass prongs show.  Put meter on the energized visible prongs.  Be careful they are hot. 
Hot to hot is zero with pigtalis, 240 volts with pedestal.
One hot to neutral is always 120 volts.
Other hot to neutral is always 120 volts.
Neutral to ground is zero volts.
Each hot to ground is 120 volts.

BTW, 120 volts means anything between 109 & 129.  240 volts means anything between double the 120 volts.  Approximate is ok as long as it is close.

If it works sometime and not others, jiggle plug for loose attached copper connection.

Let us know what you find.

What are you looking at when you say nothing shows on my display, what display.

Barry


Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #2
Your EMS may have a couple minute delay before it lets power into the coach.  Make sure you're allowing for this when checking inside for power.
Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
no longer 1999 36' U320 build #5522
2013 Rzr 570 & 2018 Ranger XP1000
2006 Lexus GX470
2011 Tahoe LT 4x4
Previous 1998 45' 2 slide Newell, 1993 39' Newell

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #3
I think folivier meant ATS.  My OEM ATS sometimes takes a couple minutes (seems like a half hour sometimes) to connect with a clunk.  The portable EMS PT-50X does several continuity tests and will show voltage, Hz, and amps, and an "E" value.  If you don't see "E-0", the EMS will block all power.  The EMS also has a time delay if it encountered a temporary voltage issue.  That delay is 2 minutes and 16 seconds.  So it may take around 5 minutes to get safe power to the coach.  Try plugging in 50 amp and wait a few.  Just my ez button.  Woody.
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #4
Yes, if you are safe working around 120/240 VAC, open the ATS.  If two open the one with generator and shore IN and OUT to main breaker panel (the one to the main breaker box is short and easy to trace).

Check for power IN and OUT

On 50 amp shore power:
Black to white= 120 VAC
Red to white= 120 VAC
Black to green= 120 VAC
Red to green= 120 VAC
Green to white= 0 VAC
Red to black= 240 VAC

On 30 amps-- all the same except red to black= 0 VAC

If you don't get those readings on the IN side, work back toward shore power cord until you find the culprit.

On the shore power cord:
Two outer straights= hot
Center straight= neutral
Center round= ground
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #5
Sort of a side bar ... Could one take 30 amps from two power posts to a Y connection with a 50 amp connection at the end of the Y?  Hot from both 30 amp combined to the 2 50 amp hot blades? Hot from each 30 amp to one or the other 50 am hot blade?  Can you buy something like a 2-30 amp to 50 amp pigtail?
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #6
Sort of a side bar ... Could one take 30 amps from two power posts to a Y connection with a 50 amp connection at the end of the Y?  Hot from both 30 amp combined to the 2 50 amp hot blades? Hot from each 30 amp to one or the other 50 am hot blade?  Can you buy something like a 2-30 amp to 50 amp pigtail?

Lots of "IFF's" here.

At most that would give you a total of 60 amps vs 100 for 50 amp shore power.

Are both hots on the same "Phase"?  If so it would be possible to overload the neutral, as the neutral is only designed to carry the DIFFERENCE between draw on L1 and L2.

And, most shore power pedestals have one 50, one 30 and one 15/20.  With code being that the 15/20 be in a GFI which would trip with this adapter.

So, for 90% of RV owners, I would strongly suggest against it. 

For those with a strong electrical background/knowledge-- MAYBE.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #7
Brett Wolfe wrote "Yes, if you are safe working around 120/240 VAC, open the ATS.  If two open the one with generator and shore IN and OUT to main breaker panel (the one to the main breaker box is short and easy to trace)."

Safe means proper technique, and it's not that complicated.

Wear rubber soled shoes.

Put an alligator clip on your black or negative test lead.

Put your off hand into your pocket.

Clip the black lead to your common rail.

Probe with your good hand and keep your off hand in your pocket.

Art

1992 Foretravel Grand Villa
U225 SBID Build No. 4134
1986 Rockwood Driftwood
1968 S.I.A.T.A. Spring
1962 Studebaker Lark
1986 Honda VF700C
1983 Honda VF750C
Charlie, the Dog was broken out of jail 24 Oct 2023
N1RPN
AA1OH (H)e who must be obeyed.

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #8
Glenn,

Here is a good site on how to wire your 50 amp RV plug. How To Wire A 50 Amp RV Plug: Here Are 5 Quick And Easy Steps . Nothing like a picture to say a thousand words. Why not ask the RV park for their electrical person to give you a hand?

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #9
Thanks to all. I plugged in PI EMS and it read all is good...118 each leg and EO. Went inside...display showed nothing. Disconnected EMS and plugged in direct. One leg low the other high... just like what happened in Texas when the round ground broke off the main power line. Looks like I will be rewiring plug. Probably a loose ground. You guys are the best
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #10
The wiring looks ok to me
I am going to plug it in "open" like this so I can multimeter all connections
YES... I will be super careful
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT


Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #12
No apparent problem at the pole but I read 107 and 139 inside
The question is WHY? and where do I look for the problem?
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #13
No apparent problem at the pole but I read 107 and 139 inside
The question is WHY? and where do I look for the problem?
Don't believe the factory monitor, read voltages at the 2 different outlet circuits.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #14

Don't believe the factory monitor, read voltages at the 2 different outlet circuits.
[/quote]

Outlet circuits?
Where do I test them?
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #15
Use one of the outlets around the sink area, doesn't matter which one and check one on the opposite side, not knowing your floor plan find one near the front. My monitor gives screwy numbers sometimes and the voltages are ok.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #16
Problem is on the neutral wire. Problem could be in cord reel if you have one or transfer switch.  Are you using your EMS and it is showing good voltage but the coach is not?

Be careful you can smoke all of your electric items on the high voltage side.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #17
Thanks to all. I plugged in PI EMS and it read all is good...118 each leg and EO. Went inside...display showed nothing. Disconnected EMS and plugged in direct. One leg low the other high... just like what happened in Texas when the round ground broke off the main power line. Looks like I will be rewiring plug. Probably a loose ground. You guys are the best

Maybe an illusion, but looks like the black hot is not making a good connection.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #18
Agree with Brett...in the picture of your open 50a plug, your black connection looks marginal.  Also looks like your green ground wire might have been pressed against the neutral lug when you screwed the case together...sufficiently to possibly make connection ground to neutral...not good.  I'd rewire it just in case.  Agree too that the Foretravel monitor is not state of the art.  It's just plugged into an dual outlet behind the panel.  Better than nothing I guess, but the Progressive portable is SOA.  Woody.
2001 4010 U320 build #5865 "Bluto-d-Bus" since 09/18
2006 Honda Element ESP Toad
Full timing since 2016 in Western MT
Copilot: Sitka
1975 GMC 260 Avion: sold

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #19
PI EMS does show an open ground
I will redo plug and try again
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #20
Then the problem is between your power plug and the breaker box in your coach.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #21
Agree with Brett...in the picture of your open 50a plug, your black connection looks marginal.  Also looks like your green ground wire might have been pressed against the neutral lug when you screwed the case together

Also can't see the neutral in the picture provided, but hopefully it looks better than the black connection.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #22
Everything seems to be okay running through the EMS. I want to thank you all, once again, for taking interest in my problem. I actually used a multimeter on most of the outlets in the coach and all were reading good. I will keep an eye out fo any irregularities.
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #23
Oops
Premature. All is okay.........UNTIL we turned on the electric switch for the Aqua Hot,,, Then we get 136.  and. 110.!!
We HAVE to be able to use the electric switch, as we are too close to our neighbors, and they wouldn't appreciate the diesel smell.
I have a call into Rudy, so I KNOW everything will be ok. Without AH it's 120 ish.
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: Voltage problem revisited

Reply #24
That still suggests that someplace the neutral conductor is not making good contact, wire broken, if cord reel may be poor contactor in it, etc.

You need to get this fixed before it "lets the smoke out" of some of your electronics from extreme low/high voltage.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020