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Topic: Rebuilding Aqua Hot (Read 7036 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #40 –
Not much done today. I basically did a service on the AH motor. Cleaned out the combustion chamber, set the ignition points. (Didn't know till I talked to Rudy a couple of weeks ago that the device to locate the points is mounted on the outside of the burner motor. Great business model that you won't see these days. Let the owner do something. The business plans for most places now is make it where it has to come back to the store/factory/certified tech for everything, all at oly a couple hundred dollars an hour!!!!!  Sorry for the rant, just thankful that AH didn't do that plan in the early years. Don't know about now, hope not.)

I probably spent more time cleaning and sorting my tools which I had scattered around the garage. Anyway, got sidetracked by a couple of phone calls. There is always tomorrow.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #41 –
OK the show is on again. The mastic came in yesterday afternoon, too late to try anything so I was hard at it at the crack of mid morning. I had to take the exhaust system to a muffler shop in the next town to have a new 2" exhaust built. He said no problem, has to order the muffler. It will be in tomorrow. Should be able to pick it up by mid afternoon.

Back to the mastic. I ordered 2 gallons' of the Chemax 300. I put it on about 1/8" to 1/4" thick for under the coils. I used less than 1/2 gallon. The reason for 2 gallons is I plan on putting a layer on the top of the coils once I have pressure tested the coil. It has been a long time since I soldered copper, so before it goes into the coach I want to pressure test with air to make sure there are no leaks. I bought a swag tool and used it for the first time. With practice, I might make it look truly professional. I liked how it worked so well and the fact that there was only 1 joint to solder verses 2 in a coupling, I figured that I bettered my odds.

If you do this project, make sure that there are 2 people to help hold the coil tight in place while wrapping it. It would have been nice to have had a 100' coil and a 50' coil instead of 3 50' coils, but no one seemed to interested in getting one in in a timely manner. I also made sure that the tank was secured from moving while it was standing up.

I was able to get 30 wraps on the boiler verses 29 on the old tube. Hopefully it will work as well or better than before. It worked great then, but if it can be improved, so much the better. I have 1" ceramic insulation due for delivery by this weekend. I hope to have some other items taken care of by then. We are supposed to get a lot of rain Wed-Fri with winds up to 70 mph on Friday, so we will see how much this impacts my betting out in the coach.

Were having fun now :D  :D

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #42 –
You don't need the muffler. You go to 2" to lessen restrictions. Why add one by installing a muffler? I left it off when I went to 2" and the sound is not noticeably louder, just has a little bit of a hollow sound.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #44 –
Get a higher wattage heater element while you are in their... I have a 2000w now and have a 2200w in my drawer at work to swap out later.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #45 –
That much power limits it to a strong output plug in?

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #46 –
Depends on your setup I suppose.. and needs? 30 amp shouldnt be a problem and if pedestal to pedestal that shouldnt be a problem... Plugged in on a 15 amp plug... maybe a problem but you have other issues also.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #47 –
Bob & DJ, I assumed (yes I know) that I should since there was one originally. Could have saved a few bucks I guess. This will be one job that should never have to be redone.

David, my question is would I need a higher amp fuse in the rig? I'm not sure what the wattage is on the heater now, I haven't taken the time to look it up. Also, recomendations on where to get the higher voltage heater. I'm not sure if I would use it very often. Most of the time I have used the diesel side.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #48 –
Larry also consider the size of the wire going to the heater element.  It needs to be sized large enough for the increased wattage.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #49 –
Larry, The electric element is 120 vac and is not fused.  A 20 amp circuit breaker protects that circuit.  The circuit breaker is in the 120 vac panel.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #50 –
Quote from: Rudy –
Larry, The electric element is 120 vac and is not fused.  A 20 amp circuit breaker protects that circuit.  The circuit breaker is in the 120 vac panel.

A 20 Amp circuit should only carry 1920 Watts @ 120V  (80%  of breaker size)

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #51 –
Thanks for the info.  Since I'm not the electrical type, is a 20 amp fuse big enough to handle the larger element? If so, should the wiring be upsized.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #52 –
A 20 amp breaker at 120V can handle total of 2,400 watts before it trips and it might take a little while at that wattage before it does trip.  So in answer to the question, yes.  But, If I was figuring out a circuit to handle a 2,200 watt heater I would take the 2200 watts x 1.25% to come up with a circuit that would be able to handle 2,750 watts.  Thus a number 10 wire with a 25 amp fuse or circuit breaker and I would then be able to sleep good at night.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #53 –
Thanks for the info Turbojack. Not sure if I will change it out or not. Is there a way to test the old one to see if it is still good?

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #54 –
The mastic hardened overnight and it looks really good. Only the first and the last loop came loose and I think that I can get them to size down to the tank. They only came up about 1/8". With all the rest sitting tight I don't think that I will loose much heat, especially if I put a layer of mastic over the top and then the new insulation in the box.

I put the boiler assembly into the main box to begin figuring out how I am going to modify it. I am seeing how to reroute some hoses so that I can put shut off valves on the engine coolant and isolate it if I want to remove again. The valves located on it now will isolate the boiler so that it won't be necessary to drain it to work on it. I'm also going to move the tempering valve assembly further out from under the burner motor. This will allow me to have the connections located on the outside of the box. I will have to do some rework of the hot and cold water lines but I think I can run them further out of the way.

I spent over half of the day running down parts to fabricate a pressure test gauge to make sure that my soldered joints had no leaks. Got the parts and began assembling it an snapped off the gauge. Figures. Back to NAPA , got a new gauge and came home and set up the test. SURPRISE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No leaks. It has held 100# pressure for over 3 hrs now. I'm feeling confident it is good to go. That is a great big weight off my shoulders.

Tomorrow, the new coating on the outside.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #55 –
Here's the good news for the morning. The pressure test held for over 16 hrs. I hereby declare victory on onward with the project.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #56 –
Gotta cut the day short today, got places to be this evening. Here's the update. Got a layer of mastic covering the outer part of the coils. Went on smooth. It will take at least a day to dry and cure with the high humidity that has set in for today. Calling for heavy showers so I expect that to slow the process. I used less than 1 gallon of the Chemax. I still have an unopened container if someone can use it, PM me.

I went to the muffler shop to pick up the new exhaust. He had a question about length so it wasn't quite done. I told him about not putting on the muffler and he was good with that. Said he had another job that he would use the muffer on, so he wasn't out any money. Total cost for new pipe. bending and flaring, cutting into 2 pieces and flaring so it will fit, 4 clamps and a chrome straight tip $43.00. I was expecting much more. I will recommend him to anybody in need.

When I got back, Prime had delivered my new ceramic insulation. Surprise. It wasn't scheduled to be here till next week. All the better. I can get the insulation on with the cold weather coming tomorrow and begin the actual re-installation process, as soon as the mastic dries.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #57 –
Larry,

It sounds like you have a handle on this project, good deal! When you apply the mastic, its easiest to just use rubber gloves and use your hands, it will be a mess, but you will be able to uniformly cover all the copper relatively quickly. I hope you were able to get a heavier grade copper pipe than regular, it will last longer. It is tough to find quality products, but you can if you search for it. Check the insulation to make sure it can be reused without hazard.

Keep us posted!

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #58 –
You got it!! funny

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #59 –
The mastic set up nicely so today after cutting the new insulation and gluing it in I put the boiler into the box. I bolted it down, something that wasn't there from when I removed. I did some rework on the wires showing deterioration. The front panel was bent in multiple places when I bought it. I looks like someone pried the top corner away trying to get inside. I straightened the panel out a lot. It shows the old crease lines but it looks much better than before, and with some minor adjustments it fits and aligns with the original rivet holes.

Tomorrow I'm getting some more pipe fittings in order to rework the engine coolant lines and the fresh water lines. Once I am satisfied with that, I will rivet the panels back together and finish the insulation around the tank.

Larry