Skip to main content
Topic: Rebuilding Aqua Hot (Read 7038 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #60
I used the self tap Phillip head screws with the larger flat head to put back together .. Just in case I need to take it apart in the future I wont have to drill the rivits

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #61
I used stainless self tappers too!! good call.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #62
Today I began some of the modifications for the hookups. I loosely fitted the plumbing back together to try to make sure that something moved wouldn't be in the way of something else. I want to relocate the diesel fuel filter. It has been moved to laying horizontal in the area where the 3 zone pumps are. It is not easy to get to for changing the filters. The AH manual doesn't show on the schematic where it belongs, but on the side panel there are 2 holes which have the same dimension that the hanging bracket has. I assume someone moved it from there to the inside panel. I've not decided where to relocate it yet.

I disassembled the plumbing and began resoldering the copper lines. I lengthend the lines feeding the tempering valve so that the connections now protrude thru the housing outside the box. I am doing similar extensions for the engine preheat lines. I only had a couple of hours today, probably about the same tomorrow if I'm lucky.

I took the others advice and used self tapping screws instead of rivets to hold the front panel in place. It seems to hold well and the heads will be located in the back still out of sight. I may still use rivets on the other panels just to have a more finished look.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #63
Our AH fuel filter is in the first bay on the driver's side where the generator blower and access handle is at.  Easy to service.
John M.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #64
I changed out the fuel filter for the aqua hot and put in a small racor knock off. It's easy to access in the aqua hot compartment. It's a little inline filter I removed and threw away. Did that all when I changed out the fuel lines. Think I paid like $50 for it.
Following this thread closely as probably a lot of us are, since I know at some point I will have to do this too. And since I don't want to pay $8,000 to have aqua hot company do it, I plan on doing it myself if I can. Might just do it proactively next year. Since I found a lot of things on this coach not fully up to standard, due to some maintenance issues possibly, or maybe just not being used enough, I'm sure I'm probably have the same issues with the aqua hot too.
Would really appreciate if after you're done you post what it cost you to do this.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #65
Not sure if your unit is the same as 920431/432. On my 99 U320 there is an inline fuel filter mounted to the right of circulation pumps above burner assembly. ???

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #66
John, I hadn't considered moving it out of the AH bay, which in my case is in the middle of the coach. I have access through my main storage on top of the joey bed. I may look into moving it for easier access. I moved my primary filter for the engine and am very glad I did. After all, I'm  not getting any older or more agile  :))

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #67
Bob, do you have a link to the knock off? I would like to see what it is. I hope to have things back in order this week, weather depending, but it could make an interesting modification even after I have thing up and running. Is the new filter a spin on like the main engine?

Yes I can post what expenses I had. Some of which not all will want/need to do I anticipate. Since I come from a maintenance background, I like to see if I can make things more accessible and easier to service going forward. So not everything that I do will be necessary. I also have purchased a few tools to make the job go easier. Some will need fewer tools to purchase, others more so I will try to break things down in a somewhat logical listing.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #68
Chuck, that is exactly where mine is located. I also had 2 holes behind the engine circulation pump which led me to think that someone might have moved it. My new guess is that AH moved it. Thanks for pointing that out. It doesn't show up on the online manual which I down loaded. The thing that I don't like about it besides the locations difficulty to service is that the filter being on its side doesn't ever fully fill up. I've not noticed any fuel starvation issue so it is getting enough fuel to run, but my worry is that only about the bottom 1/3 of the filter is being used. Probably not a problem in reality, but it just didn't seem right in my universe.

The 2 preceding posts have me thinking along a different route though ::)

Larry


Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #70
Bob, very nice looking unit. I like the looks better than the cheap plastic wix  unit I have. I failed to mention that on inspection of my wix  filter I found a crack in the lead in tube assembly of the filter. I knew that there had been a minor leak but couldn't locate it till I removed the whole assembly. This unit in a better location would be a nice upgrade.

Thanks for the link and the advice.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #71
New filter ordered ^.^d

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #72
I had a small inline filter inside the Aqua-hot and changed it out for one like Bob used beside the Aqua-hot, easy to get at. I also changed the fuel lines.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #73
I also replaced the small plastic fuel filter which was located inside the AquaHot unit with a larger cartridge type filter mounted on the overhead outside the AquaHot unit.  The AquaHot in my coach is located in the awkward to access area amidship.  Since the fuel pick-up for the AquaHot is well above the bottom of the fuel tank, I saw no reason to have a filter with the water separator function. 

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #74
Richard I'm sure you're correct about the order separator not being needed with the pickup not being at the bottom of the tank. But for that price it's a no-brainer for me. Part of my problem is I come from a sailing background and I tend to think nautical when I replace parts. But I think I paid $50 for that filter with the water separator it's good insurance.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #75
Larry, can you post photos of your progress?  Please!!!!  We have the 431/12 unit as well.  I think that all U320's from '95 to around '05 have this unit as well.  Knock on wood, ours is purring like a kitten right now, thanks to Rudy and his expertise!

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #76
Joe, I will try to, but truthfully I am more adept at machinery than that magical, technical , post pictures thingy. I have several things going on right now, so I haven't been able to spend the time the last couple of days I wanted to, but I have been documenting this with my camera and I will try to get a few of the better pictures up and running. It might take a day or two. I think that so far I've taken around 100 pictures, many to document where electric and liquid lines went to.

Larry

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #77
I would also very much so appreciate the photos.  Rebuilding the aquahot is something I would take on if it ever came to it.  For now, it is good.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #78
MY A-H fuel filter is mounted 90 degrees to Witt's, thru-bolted.  My propane tank is on the other side of that wall but I could reach the fasteners just fine.

Re: Rebuilding Aqua Hot

Reply #79
Things have come along well today. Once I got more propane (ran out on Sat. It was the same tank I have had since 1985) I was able to finish soldering the copper joints into place. I used a combination of black and brass piping to make the connections from the engine preheat circuit to extend outside the sheet metal box for connections. I got the 4 pumps reattached in their respective places.

I did cut the wires to the engine preheat pump in order to make reassembly easier. I plan on splicing in longer wires and rerouting them for better convenience. 

I changed out the lower old valve for a new 1/4 turn ball valve for isolating the boiler. It is smaller and as long as the burner is removed, it will be easy to access. The old one was nearly impossible to get to. I have moved the engine preheat lines to hook up outside the box and have added 1/4 turn ball valves so that I can isolate the engine coolant instead of having to drain it all should the need arise. It will still loose what is in the lines within the AH, but it won't drain the engine.

For the fresh water lines, I am adding valves to isolate the AH also. I plan on adding a quick connect air line so that I can blow out the coils for winterization. I had always ran RV anitfreeze through the system till it came out of the various faucets, but apparently I didn't do something correct  a couple of years ago. I believe the coils ruptured because I had improperly winterized. There fore once I have run the pink stuff through the system, I will shut off the valves and use air to blow it out. I don't want to chance ruptured coils again. This isn't a job that I want to do again.

Tomorrow I plan on air pressure testing the pipes and rehooking the wiring. It might be a banner day and I get the burner back in place. Assuming that not to many things come up to take me away.

Larry