oil filter change

Topic: oil filter change (Read 1073 times) previous topic - next topic

oil filter change

March 01, 2021, 03:36:58 pm

What is your process for changing oil filters?

I seem to always make a mess, and have trouble getting the big filled-up filter threaded without tipping it.

Do you drill or punch the old filter and let it drain? Do you have a lifting mechanism for the new filter?

Re: oil filter change

Reply #1 – March 01, 2021, 03:49:02 pm

Get the engine up to temp, have a container ready, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, allow to drain, use HD strap wrench to take off filter. Oil new rubber gasket and intall new filter following instructions on the side of the filter. Put a plastic bag around the filter once you have loosened it a turn or so and then grab the filter through the bag and spin it off.

In the photo below, you can see the small hole in the filter lying in the drain container.

And for those who insist on pouring diesel in their new filters, don't do it. The new fuel filters have a illustration on prefilling the filter with a big X through it. I just install both, leave the secondary loose or open a line past the filter and then use the hand pump for about one minute until the pressure gauge is up and the pump is hard to operate. I just changed filters 3 days ago.

Pierce

Re: oil filter change

Reply #2 – March 01, 2021, 03:55:00 pm

I add a minor sub-step.

Before punching a hole in the filter to drain it, loosen it just a little so you KNOW you can get it off. Just so it moves at all-- insuring that you CAN get it off!

Re: oil filter change

Reply #3 – March 01, 2021, 05:48:43 pm

Matt B, I think there is a confusing post here (#1) that is talking about both fuel and oil filters at the same. You were asking about oil filters.

For the Oil Filters ... Brett's suggestion to make sure you can get it off is a good one. Once off (inside a plastic bag to reduce mess) you should fill the new oil filter and oil the gasket. You can fill the filter with new, CLEAN oil in the center, let it settle in and keep adding until it is full. The guy that changed my oil in November had a plug of some sort that went in the center hole of the filter and he filled it from the outside holes. The plug prevented oil from going into the center hole but probably let air out, I wish I would have looked closer. This is the way the oil flows through the filter for your engine. If you read about it any contaminants introduced by filling the filter from the center go right back into the engine. Like many things where there are choices to argue about, some fill from the outside holes, some through the center hole. No matter how it gets done the oil filter should get filled. Or not depending on who you ask or what you read.

For the Fuel Filters ... Your (IS)M11 has an air purge system and the fuel filters will fill when you run the air purge, it is like priming the engine.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #4 – March 01, 2021, 06:00:57 pm

Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – March 01, 2021, 05:48:43 pm

Matt B, I think there is a confusing post here (#1) that is talking about both fuel and oil filters at the same. You were asking about oil filters.

I changed my post. The advice to loosen the filter before impaling it is good. Kind of like removing the "add" plug on the diff before removing the "drain" plug.

Have any of you devised a system to support the filter when installing? It is heavy!

Re: oil filter change

Reply #5 – March 01, 2021, 06:05:39 pm

Adressing: filling the oil filter. IF, repeat IF you feel you have to fill the oil filter (not recommended by either petroleum engineers or some engine manufacturers (have not queried all of them) the OUTER holes are the INLETS, the center hole is the OUTLET.

SO, fill slowly the outer holes if you feel you have to.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #6 – March 01, 2021, 06:16:30 pm

Quote from: wolfe10 – March 01, 2021, 06:05:39 pm

Adressing: filling the oil filter. IF, repeat IF you feel you have to fill the oil filter (not recommended by either petroleum engineers or some engine manufacturers (have not queried all of them) the OUTER holes are the INLETS, the center hole is the OUTLET.

SO, fill slowly the outer holes if you feel you have to.

Remember the old Texaco ads where they drain all the oil then drive it around the Indianapolis track? Then they tear the engine down and show everything is still good. Not much need to add oil to a filter.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #7 – March 01, 2021, 06:21:37 pm

The guy that did mine runs a heavy truck and ag equipment shop but works on (and really likes working on) coaches. He had a stand that held the filter while filling it. My coach was raised up and blocked, he scooted under on a trolly and screwed it on. Like you, I might have been looking for some assistance if I were doing it. 38 qts of oil, a filter and labor was $253. I will be going back again.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #8 – March 01, 2021, 06:30:30 pm

Quote from: wolfe10 – March 01, 2021, 06:05:39 pm

Adressing: filling the oil filter. IF, repeat IF you feel you have to fill the oil filter (not recommended by either petroleum engineers or some engine manufacturers (have not queried all of them) the OUTER holes are the INLETS, the center hole is the OUTLET.

SO, fill slowly the outer holes if you feel you have to.

That leads to another question. I have read that the M-11 will not start until there is oil pressure. Wouldn't the filter fill before the engine started anyway.?

And another question, respectfully. I have seen so many warnings to fill the oil filter on a diesel or the gods will be angered and expensive stuff breaks. And oil change shops forget to fill the filter and have to buy engines for customers. Is this all wrong? Is the furor really about starting diesels WITHOUT OIL?

Re: oil filter change

Reply #9 – March 01, 2021, 06:37:13 pm

Matt,

My endorsement of the engine manufacturer's "install it DRY" is from a petroleum engineer at a Diesel RV Club Rally where I was giving the DP maintenance seminar.

He was emphatic that "things do get by the filters at the refineries". The risk is low, but HIGHER than running the engine for a few seconds while the filter fills.

Oil does remain on the components for longer than the start up procedure.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #10 – March 01, 2021, 08:08:26 pm

Quote from: wolfe10 – March 01, 2021, 03:55:00 pm

I add a minor sub-step.

Before punching a hole in the filter to drain it, loosen it just a little so you KNOW you can get it off. Just so it moves at all-- insuring that you CAN get it off!

Yes, good to start removing it so you know it's coming off. I don't worry so much as I sent off for the HD filter remover that uses a big ratchet. I had to buy one as my normal strap wrenches would not budge the spin on air dryer. Here is the wrench: Amazon.com: Swelgo Strap Filter Wrench, for Heavy Duty, Objects up to 6-1/2.... It has to go over 6 inches as the air dryer is exactly 6 inches in diameter. It makes easy work of any filter without putting a mark on it. If you put an extension on the HD filter strap, you can do it from below at any position so there is no clearance issue to bust a knuckle.

Pierce

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Re: oil filter change

Reply #11 – March 01, 2021, 08:15:20 pm

Oil remains a micron or two thick on engine parts so the combination of starter motor and a couple of seconds running is plenty to fill the filter without doing any damage.

Matt,

I thought you needed a can of spinach when you said the filter is heavy. Yes, full of oil, it's really heavy.

Pierce

Re: oil filter change

Reply #12 – March 01, 2021, 09:30:36 pm

I always the oil filter and if there is no priming pump I prefill fuel filters. Try starting 71 series Jimmy Diesel with out prefilling the
fuel filter.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #13 – March 01, 2021, 10:52:22 pm

OldGuy,

I didn't prefill my "Jimmy" diesel 3 days ago, just left the secondary a turn loose, pumped the little frame hand pump until diesel flowed out, tightened it and away we went after a little more pumping. As you have seen, I have a pressure gauge on my primary filter and the secondary filter. The relive/return valve is right there too. Pump for about 45 seconds and I get pressure on the primary gauge. Then I tighten the secondary, keep pumping another 45 seconds or so until my hand gets tired and then wipe my hands off, head to the driver's seat and off we go.

Tom Hall has a great way to prime all diesels with a simple addition of an electric fuel pump. If I were not so lazy, I would install it on ours but a week from now, I will have forgotten all about it and just use the hand pump the next time. So, if you're worried about filling your filters and getting your rig to start, check Tom's excellent page here: Tom Hall No possible way to contaminate the diesel or even to get your hands dirty. Save the pumping for the beer keg.

Pierce

Re: oil filter change

Reply #14 – March 01, 2021, 11:15:01 pm

So generally the Manufacturer has been doing this for several months longer than us. They go into great detail about what they recommend. So with good intentions you prefill your filter, chances are you have poured your clean out of the bottle oil into yes the down stream side of the filter actually bypassing the filter medium. And you'll be surprised to read that the oil manufacturer don't declare there product clean till it passes thru your oil filter. To correctly fill it has to pass thru the filter. Reals slow going. I have sworn off lubing oil filter seals with engine oil decades ago thru fear of being unable to have a coworker remove a filter. I use and will always recommend Dowell Corning DC4 for the seals. Filter is removed with similar force as installed. Always. Pierce is correct draining that beast before removal. Bretts plastic bag works well also. I use a self tapping screw to reseal the new drain hole. I also cut open every filter and take a peak at what's going on as shown by the filter medium. I'm not going to contaminate the clean side of the filter with new oil, I put up dry. DC4 the seal.
Good stuff
Scott

Re: oil filter change

Reply #15 – March 01, 2021, 11:21:02 pm

Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart – March 01, 2021, 10:52:22 pm

Save the pumping for the beer keg.

Pierce

CO2 keep the beer fresh for months. Please don't recommend this any more unless used in 24 hrs.
Scott

Re: oil filter change

Reply #16 – March 01, 2021, 11:47:45 pm

In a half a gallon or so of oil to fill a filter, I seriously doubt your going to get enough contamination to harm anything. Assuming you are using oil from a new sealed container. I would worry more about contamination from dirt and so on due to banging the filter around trying to get screwed on. Fill don't fill DWMYFG, it's not going to hurt anything one way or another.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #17 – March 02, 2021, 12:08:43 am

Quote from: bbeane – March 01, 2021, 11:47:45 pm

DWMYFG?

I think I missed the memo.

Please define DWMYFG.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #18 – March 02, 2021, 12:11:00 am

Do what makes you feel good

Re: oil filter change

Reply #19 – March 02, 2021, 12:23:06 am

RIP Dave Metzger...
DWMYFG was his tag line

Re: oil filter change

Reply #20 – March 02, 2021, 12:28:02 am

This conversation makes me love my pre-oiler system even more. Turn the key to on and an electric oil pump comes on for 30 seconds to circulate oil in the engine and build a little oil pressure. After pump stops fire it up and ready to go. On shutdown pump comes on for 60 seconds to circulate oil for cooldown. Especially for that oh so precious turbo. PO installed it, sure glad he did. I still add oil in my filters at changes. Like Bruce said chance of contamination pretty much nil if you pay attention. Lubrication and heat is the killer of my Detroit Diesel 6V92. Want to take care it so watch both of those things real close.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #21 – March 02, 2021, 12:31:27 am

Quote from: Tim Fiedler – March 02, 2021, 12:23:06 am

RIP Dave Metzger...
DWMYFG was his tag line

Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139

Thank you.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #22 – March 02, 2021, 09:49:28 am

If you've ever hear a Cat G3306 engine start without filling the filter(valve train clatter and loud)you will be a believer of filter filling,
and those same "engineers" will tell you that alot of engine wear comes from starting the engine,instead of cutting the filter open
why not just take an oil sample and get a good report.Guess Iv'e done it so many times while working,changing the filter without draining it and installing it full is not a hassle.

Re: oil filter change

Reply #23 – March 02, 2021, 10:20:11 am

John,

Does not leaving the secondary a turn loose and then using the factory pump to fill both accomplish the same thing as taking a container and manually filling the filters without the chance of contamination?

Pierce

Re: oil filter change

Reply #24 – March 03, 2021, 07:03:54 am

On my mechanical 8.3 I fill the fuel filters,install and give the pump a few pumps and it starts right up,too many different setups to
have one way of changing filters,some find it hard to get to the fuel pump,do what works the best.

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