Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

I feel like that is one of those big savings areas I can do. I do have couple of questions though.

1. I have been thinking I can do this myself but my biggest concern has been what to do with the used oil? YES, AS OTHERS HAVE SAID YOU CAN POUR THE OLD OIL INTO THE GALLON JUGS THAT THE NEW OIL CAME IN AN RECYCLE ALMOST ANYWHERE.

2. What type of coolant do these use? I read a post about having to have the coolant tested and then adding something to it to bring its SEP(?) content to the right level? Could I not just get away with a full drain and refill with the appropriate fluid type?
-I read in a post a while back that my father was under the impression the 3176B did not have the aluminum plate you talked about? Any chance you know if that was ever confirmed? TO CONFIRM IF IT HAS THE ALUMINUM SPACER, CALL CATERPILLAR CORP WITH THE ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER (877 777-3126).  BUT WITH A CATERPILLAR ENGINE, I WOULD FLUSH THE COOLING SYSTEM (TIME CONSUMING, BUT NOT COMPLICATED) AND GO WITH CATERPILLAR ELC COOLANT. BE SURE TO GET CONCENTRATE.  IF YOU NEED THE STEP BY STEP, LET US KNOW.

3. Is the transmission and rear-end fluid something easily done as well? YES.  GET THE FILTER AND FLUID FROM ANY ALLISON DISTRIBUTOR.  THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.  YOU WILL WANT THE NEW TES 688 FLUID THAT ALLISON IS CARRYING.  REAR AXLE IS THE SAME AS ANY VEHICLE WITH REAR AXLE, BUT OF COURSE LARGER CAPACITY.

Thanks,

Guessing 5-7k for flatbed. Last resort. Throw the timetable out if you want to be on schedule. Everything will sort its self out, but at its schedule. Took me like ten days to get home with our coach. Couple of relax days in there too.
Scott
Wanted dead or alive

I'll interject a thought. As you said time is an issue. You will unfortunately find that scheduling a maintenance appointment at an RV repair shop can be long frustrating process. As you are looking at mostly taking care of the drivetrain to get the coach back east safely. I would suggest to avoid an RV shop like the plague and use a reputable truck repair shop instead. The truck shops are not usually scheduled months in advance like RV shops are. A truck shop can inspect and repair those slide pins on the brake calipers and deal with any other oily things that need fixing or lubing.   

EDIT to add: You might even check into flat bedding the coach back East. I have no idea what the cost is. But it can be an option if you ultimately run out of time to get everything in order.

Reading your dad's posts air bags replaced 5 years ago along with new Yokohama  tires. The tires are only 5 years old and if were covered probably just need to be inspected.

If your dad did airbags and fuel lines I would bet he had it serviced properly. Did he
drive it much, what does the oil look like. If everything looks good I would go and
get extra fuel filters and maybe change the fuel filter after a thousand miles or so.
It's a lot easier to get things done when you get home.

To be sure it wouldn't be cheap. But then burning vacation time to travel clear across the country. Hotels, Eating out, Etc. Along with the added stress of working on or having the coach worked on in a place you don't know very well while also being short on time. It can result in a bad decision because of the lack of time. But yes, It's a last resort sort of thing.

If they are Michelins , change them . Any other brand should be OK as long as they get to be round with driving .

...I think I might start calling the semi-truck guys and seeing what they say.

Thanks,

You can save yourself a lot of headaches if you install a quick drain for the oil. Use the vacuum cleaner method for installing the quick drain the first time so you don't make a mess. If you have a 8.3 Cummins, be REALLY CAREFUL not to damage the aluminum threads. Once you have installed a quick drain, you never have to worry again!

NAPA and other autoparts stores take used oil in many places. Call ahead. Read oil posts on how to change oil and filter. Buy a strap wrench that uses a 1/2" or 3/8" breaker bar to operate. They are fool proof and will even remove spinoff air dryer cartridges.

Pierce

I will look into the quick drain. It has a Caterpillar 3176B in it so hopefully no aluminum threads but I will be extra careful with that in mind.

I think I have filter wrenches that will work but I will double-check, good looking. Thanks

Some folks recommend ensuring the filter is loose, then punching a hole in the bottom to drain it.

I used a large storage tub lined with a heavy duty trash bag to catch the oil and minimize cleanup.  If you install the quick drain, in the future you can drain directly into old jugs.

I will look into the quick drain. It has a Caterpillar 3176B in it so hopefully no aluminum threads but I will be extra careful with that in mind.

I think I have filter wrenches that will work but I will double-check, good looking. Thanks

Oldguy

I believe he did a lot, if not all, of the fluids over the 3-4 years he was working on it (5-8 years ago). When I checked the oil before starting it, it looked like the oil that was in my F-250 7.3L when it was halfway between oil changes (2500-3000 miles), dark, but clear of any noticeable contamination or shiny flakes of any kind. I don't know if that helps explain it.

I definitely plan to have a couple of extra filters onboard with me for the trip, I read those are a common cause of breakdown in these situations.

Thanks,