Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance (Read 3126 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #50 –
Quote from: DayDreamer –
The filters can be very tight. 
So when you reinstall put a dab of DC-4 grease on the filter seal and it will remove the same as it installs. Works on oil and fuel filters. I cringe every time i change a new to me filter knowing how difficult they can be to remove. Completely resolves this issue.
Amazon.com: Dow Corning DC 4 Electrical Insulating Compound - 5.3 oz Tube :...
Scott
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #51 –
Be sure to SMELL the diesel before deciding whether to drive, treat or remove.

Destroying a fuel injection system because of bad diesel is not a good $$ decision.

Not suggesting it isn't fine, but you need to verify.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #52 –

Kye,

I'm glad you are able to take over what your Dad started.

I have taken our coach to Interstate Fleet Maintenance in South Gate (East Los Angeles). I know they have worked on our and at least one other member's Foretravel coaches. If your unable to find something closer to Ventura you may consider taking it there. We live in Orange County and its worth the drive up to LA. Your likely better served putting the 75 miles in the direction your heading.

I use one of these reusable 5-gallon jugs to transport used oil. Not as cheap as the 1 gallon containers but I hate stopping and starting when pouring from the catch pan to gallon bottles.
Amazon.com: 5 Gallon Plastic Hedpack with cap : Health & Household

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Bruce & Linda
2004 U295, Build # 6268, ISL400 CAPS
2016 Ford Explorer Sport or 1985 Jeep CJ7

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #53 –
Quote from: oldguy –
I would just check all the fluids and head out and change your oil when you get home.
If it is clean you are good to go and if not pump it out until it comes clean.
Oldguy,

I was thinking I should have the oil and coolant changed at a minimum and just check the others to make sure they are full. ALthough maybe other fluids are more important to change first?
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #54 –
Change the diff and trans fluid if you can . The metal housing  collects moisture. Use the cheap oils at  this point and monitor the color for whiteish stuff.  If it changes color, change it again later  . 
 Same with the front hubs . Roll the tire around and let out the plug. Add some synthetic GL4-5 to the lower line . Keep an eye on it as well as everything that turns or has fluid in it .
 AS prior mentioned, verify that your brakes release clean .  Disc brakes dont sit well .

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #55 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Be sure to SMELL the diesel before deciding whether to drive, treat or remove.
I used a small clear tube and put it down to the bottom of the tank and then caped the other side with a finger so I could "grab a little sample", did that about 4 times and put all contents into a clear petri dish (maybe 30ml or so). Looked clear and smelled like diesel.... I think there is about a 1/4 - 1/3 of a tank. When I started it, it seemed to start and run fine with it. My thought was to fill it up completely to "dilute" the existing diesel, a good idea? 
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #56 –
The Lincoln welder on my service truck is still running fine with 10 year old diesel in it
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #57 –
Quote from: GeoKM –
I used a small clear tube and put it down to the bottom of the tank and then caped the other side with a finger so I could "grab a little sample", did that about 4 times and put all contents into a clear petri dish (maybe 30ml or so). Looked clear and smelled like diesel.... I think there is about a 1/4 - 1/3 of a tank. When I started it, it seemed to start and run fine with it. My thought was to fill it up completely to "dilute" the existing diesel, a good idea? 
Was always told the answer to pollution was dilution. That's what it did. I was certain the fuel i had was not bio diesel and growth was not a issue but it did smell old.
Scott
IM also confident your father had fuel stabilizer in it with all the other work

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #58 –
The way I've always heard the adage: "the solution to pollution is dilution"... rolls off the tongue nicely
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #59 –
Quote from: Geodmann –
The way I've always heard the adage: "the solution to pollution is dilution"... rolls off the tongue nicely
Same thing only different. Yes I do believe that was actually the saying, I was pretty close. Lol

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #60 –
Quote from: dsd –
IM also confident your father had fuel stabilizer in it with all the other work
Scott,

I think you might be right, I am going to look in the bay where he stored all the extra fluids, spray cans, and grease and see if there is some in there. Something tells me I will find a partially used bottle of it. I think he would have put that in there knowing that he was planning to park it for at least a year while he finished it. 
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #61 –
Update with getting #4612 back up and going:

-I changed the oil and filter. Now I understand why people suggested the drain valve upgrade, it came out like a damn firehose!! I will be putting one of those in on the next oil change of course.

-I drained the coolant that was in the system at multiple points and refilled it with distilled water and flushed it twice. I then replaced the coolant with Cat Ec-1 coolant using an airlift system to ensure there were no air pockets. I replaced the SCA coolant filter with a non SCA replacement. I noticed that there were two hoses installed at the areas that people talked about purging trapped air from, they both ran back to the radiator reservoir tank, an auto-purge system I suspect? Cool if so.

-I had to replace two airbags (closest to the front on the rear axle) as one began to leak and the same bag on the other side was in equally bad shape.

-I discovered that my father had changed the transmission oil and presumably the gear oil in the rear differential right before he passed, about 5 1/2 years ago now. I checked them and they looked completely fresh and new.

-I balanced the tires at 90 psi (they were sitting at or very near 90 psi the whole time. They had sunken into the soft ground on our friend's side yard, so they were kinda "cupped" and were covered the whole time. They look completely new so I am going to keep a close eye on them but believe they will be able to make this one trip and then will be replaced.

-Did every test I could find in regards to the air brakes and airbag system, everything checked out.

With all of that in place, I decided it was time to take it out for a spin around the neighborhood to get some things moving, twisting, and turning so I could further asses the things that needed attention. Honestly, everything was pretty smooth overall. No big noises or noticeable vibrations (other than what is to be expected with something like this).

Then came the noise, at first it was a little thump coming from the front area of the coach. Then it turned into a sound similar to a slipping belt in the winter..... I brought the coach back to the house and inspected the front wheels for anything obvious and that is when I noticed that both front oil hubs were milky.... I popped the red cap out and saw dirty milk and what looks like surface rust on the nut and internals in there..... I am thinking this requires a whole new bearing, seal, Stemco front windows, and red plugs? Maybe more?

Does anyone have suggestions for how to get this fixed asap? If money is not really an issue for this what would you do to get this done?

Thank you for all your help in advance.



1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #62 –
Quote from: GeoKM –
I brought the coach back to the house and inspected the front wheels for anything obvious and that is when I noticed that both front oil hubs were milky.... I popped the red cap out and saw dirty milk and what looks like surface rust on the nut and internals in there..... I am thinking this requires a whole new bearing, seal, Stemco front windows, and red plugs? Maybe more?

Does anyone have suggestions for how to get this fixed asap? If money is not really an issue for this what would you do to get this done?
I have not done this job myself, but I've watched while a front wheel bearing on our coach was replaced at MOT.  It took about 30 minutes since they had all the tools and the required parts on hand.  I don't think there is anything really tricky about the operation.  Any good truck repair shop should be able to handle it.  The photos below might give you an idea what is involved:

Note:  There has been some heated discussion here in the past on the subject of adjusting the bearing preload.  I'm sure the subject will come up (again) as this thread progresses.  Get the popcorn ready.


1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #63 –
Any idea why they got water in them? I understand the caps may be the cause. Sounds like there will be bearing damage. Good luck

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #64 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
The photos below might give you an idea what is involved:

Note:  There has been some heated discussion here in the past on the subject of adjusting the bearing preload.  I'm sure the subject will come up (again) as this thread progresses.  Get the popcorn ready.

Thank you for the photos.

I have seen some of the pre-load debate, I still do not understand it, one of the reasons I am thinking best left to professional.
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #65 –
Quote from: dsd –
Any idea why they got water in them? I understand the caps may be the cause. Sounds like there will be bearing damage. Good luck
I have no idea. Honestly, there doesn't seem to be a way for it to get in there. Maybe from my father using a pressure washer at some point?
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #66 –
Quote from: GeoKM –
I have seen some of the pre-load debate, I still do not understand it, one of the reasons I am thinking best left to professional.
Nor do I (understand it).  Never hurts to go to a pro if that makes you feel more comfortable, plus you can usually learn something (if they let you watch).

One example of the discourse below:

Wheel seal--Stemco

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #67 –
Any idea of what part numbers I am going to be needing here? Are these going to be something we have to order or should this be something they can get the same day?

Thanks,
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #68 –
Try sending a PM or email to Mike - he may be able to help with the part numbers and advice.  Tell him where you are located.

https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=profile;u=820

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #69 –
If you are mechanically inclined and have the proper tools (including large 500#+ torque wrench, sockets, jack etc) this is a very easy job. Tons of videos online. That being said, not the right tools and this would be really hard. There really should not be any debate on preload. Whatever the axle spec sheet says is what I would do. Sorry I don't have specifics for your coach but I done lots of wheel bearings. I wish you luck!!

Curious; are you sure that is where the noise is coming from? First thing I would do is get a wheel in the air and spin the tire by hand. Any noises or grinding?

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #70 –
The bearings and seal should have part numbers on them and just go to a bearing
shop to buy them.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #71 –
KM,

I'm kind of late to the discussion as grandkids at this time of year takes precedence. You have ask several questions and you have some of the answers but I will expand on the things both covered and not. Now these won't be in any given order just random thoughts.

The wheel bearing replacement work is just like any auto produced prior to sometime around 2000 just bigger. Now to answer the change question that will come up. Around 2000 some manufactures decide to install a non greaseable non replaceable bearing set in the front of some cars.  If the rotor gets cut or bearing failure you get the hole assembly (inner bearing and rotor) all in one for a replacement. Now back on task from the side bar. If you have done an old pickup you can do these.

With each axle different you may or may not have the same bearings and seal as the next coach. Your best bet is to remove them from the rotor and look for the part numbers on each bearing and seal.  The bearings can be sourced from either a bearing store, the net. or class 8 truck supply parts store. The seal will be a Stemco seal OEM but there may be an upgraded model for your application so check. The seal can be sourced from the net and the same truck supply store with the truck store being the best bet as they deal with these every day.  A replacement set of gaskets and red plug can be got at same truck shop.

Now the wheel nut. There is a new nut available that is a slip nut once it starts slipping then the proper bearing play is achieved.  This is similar to the auto industry mentioned above as some cars now have a shoulder on the axle where the bearing bottoms out. The wheel nut is torqued and there is no adjustment needed for the certified mechanics to screw up. Now I normally don't get into the pissing contest over preload and play but I will say that if you swing by my place and we help you do the bearings you will apply a dial indicator for proper spec. even if we use the new style nut.

Where the water came from?  That may never be answered as sometimes it just happens.  With it setting for a long time it could be from barometric pressure change and moisture in the air condensing inside. If the tires were covered then it wasn't rainwater seeping in. There are some people that have had this happen and never found the reason. So that ain't a great answer but all I got.

One thing that was kind of touched on is the sounds that you mentioned. The thumping and squeeling sure sounds like a brake caliper locked up from setting. With you needing to pull the wheel bearings you will have to at least swing the calipers out of the way on the bottom slide pin.  So do the job right and go ahead and pull that pin and give them a good cleaning. Check the slack adjusters for adjustment and greasing. You need to copy the 4M disc brake book off of this sites library and give it a read before you start doing a brake job. Again this isn't hard just pay attention to the details READ THE BOOK and follow the directions. To keep you from looking here is one copy from the media section.
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=4684

All for now and back to the toenail growing watch party
Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #72 –
I am going to see if it's something I can attempt myself. My biggest issue is I do not have a large enough torque wrench to get the lugs torqued back on and that the coach is currently sitting on some soft ground so I would need to figure out a way to support the jack and stands so that they don't sink into the ground. Maybe it's worth investing in one, any crazy-sized nuts that I will have to deal with? I have a lot of sockets but only up to a certain size then it's a hit or miss.

For the sound. I thought maybe brakes at first too but the sound did not change when brakes were applied or released. The chirping changed tune when I turned the wheel, I want to say louder when turning the wheel to the right, all while moving of course.
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #73 –
It could be the wheel bearings, you will know when you look at them.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: The mystery of user Geomm and #4612 Explained - Intro and Ask for assistance

Reply #74 –
Quote from: GeoKM –
I am going to see if it's something I can attempt myself. My biggest issue is I do not have a large enough torque wrench to get the lugs torqued back on and that the coach is currently sitting on some soft ground so I would need to figure out a way to support the jack and stands so that they don't sink into the ground. Maybe it's worth investing in one, any crazy-sized nuts that I will have to deal with? I have a lot of sockets but only up to a certain size then it's a hit or miss.


Yeah the number one thing would be a good solid way to lift the front of the coach. If you can't do that safely then I would not attempt to do it.

The torque wrench is an expensive tool investment but I bought one once I stepped up to the DP coach. I have not purchased the jack stands yet but use large 8x12 wooden blocks stacked. You will need a 12+ ton bottle jack (i bought a 20 ton)

You will also need some large hub nut sockets, not sure of the size. Prob 2-4+ inches.  They make flimsy large format sockets for just these nuts and they are made of light gauge metal. Not too expensive.

All of these tools are a good investment if you plan to do more work down the road. Worse case you can also sell them and recover at least half the costs. One job done by yourself can pay for all the tools immediately vs. taking to a shop. YouTube is really your friend on this one. So much great content similar to what you will be working on, Not probably the exact setup but very similar. It is a learning curve compared to working on passenger cars but I have found it is all just bigger and heavier. Not any more difficult so far :)