Bulkhead rebuild

Topic: Bulkhead rebuild (Read 10448 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #75 – June 28, 2025, 09:47:27 pm

Cut off the front off the old frame and put it on top of the new frame set up to drill all the mounting
holes.
The last two pictures are of the rear support bracket. It is badly rusted on the bottom tubing so I will
cut it off and replace.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #76 – June 29, 2025, 07:50:21 pm

Have got the replacement tubing in place and all I have to do is weld it tomorrow. I was lucky that
Foretravel only welded the joints so it wasn't to bad to remove the old one.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #77 – June 30, 2025, 09:39:13 am

What are the bolts used in the bulkhead called. Are they tapped or do they self tap and if so what
size hole is used for 5/16th

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #78 – June 30, 2025, 09:57:45 am

Quote from: oldguy – June 30, 2025, 09:39:13 am

What are the bolts used in the bulkhead called. Are they tapped or do they self tap and if so what
size hole is used for 5/16th

Rolocks. Self tapping.

But I would sure to back with bolts/nuts since you will have access to the box beams from the bottom before you seal it up.

Said another way, the only reason self tapping bolts were used was that they didn't have access to the box beam area because the FG was installed before assembling the bulkheads.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #79 – June 30, 2025, 10:28:23 am

Thanks Brett. I'm using nuts and bolts for the ends, already have nuts welded in. The Rolocks are
for the vertical partitions. What size holes do I need or them.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #80 – June 30, 2025, 10:43:06 am

Sorry, I don't have a Rolock on hand to measure-- likely you have one around.

But, it is important to "overdrill" the basement box beam so that the self tapping bolt tightens up properly in the vertical member, rather than torque into the basement box beam and likely not properly torque into the vertical member.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #81 – June 30, 2025, 12:15:14 pm

I have some leftover rolocks ,after work I'll measure and post the length

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #82 – June 30, 2025, 12:19:13 pm

Quote from: stump – June 30, 2025, 12:15:14 pm

I have some leftover rolocks ,after work I'll measure and post the length

Very helpful:

Length

What diameter to drill basement box beam (so that the Rolock threads slip through).

What diameter to drill the verticals so the Rolock will start and have an "easy time" threading in (smaller dimension than for basement box beam).

Also, when installing the bolts/Rolocks, use a polysulfide sealant to keep water from migrating up the threads.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #83 – June 30, 2025, 12:31:07 pm

Quote from: wolfe10 – June 30, 2025, 12:19:13 pm

Very helpful:

Length

What diameter to drill basement box beam (so that the Rolock threads slip through).

What diameter to drill the verticals so the Rolock will start and have an "easy time" threading in (smaller dimension than for basement box beam).

Also, when installing the bolts/Rolocks, use a polysulfide sealant to keep water from migrating up the threads.

I used the original holes in the divider walls with new roloks. The hole in the basement floor was just so the rolok could pass through. Everything tightened up nice.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #84 – June 30, 2025, 03:39:39 pm

I haven't been able to google rolocks

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #85 – June 30, 2025, 04:35:39 pm

That is because WE (me and my friends) are MISSPELLING IT! We bought them a "C" and there isn't one.

Rolok®, High Performance Thread Rolling Screw - Semblex

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #86 – June 30, 2025, 07:58:16 pm

Bolt Depot - Star drive pan head type F (trailer screws), Zinc plated steel,...

I used these

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #87 – July 02, 2025, 09:02:20 pm

Started working on the fiberglass. First picture is starting cleaning up the glass and second picture
is it cleaned up so I can start repairing it.
Third picture is getting ready to finish drilling all the attachment holes and fourth picture is all the
holes drilled and the frame turned over so I can weld the bottom.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #88 – July 07, 2025, 01:42:23 pm

I want to remove the sewer hose door. Do I just cut the pipe.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #89 – July 08, 2025, 09:39:35 am

Quote from: oldguy – July 07, 2025, 01:42:23 pm

I want to remove the sewer hose door. Do I just cut the pipe.

That's what I did. I cut past the elbow and worked/pulled it out through the bay. I didn't want to wreck the door in case I could use it for something else someday.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #90 – July 08, 2025, 10:06:05 pm

I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and went in through the door opening and zipped it off, pvc/abs cuts quick. Replaced it with a black one so it takes longer to look hideous.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #91 – July 08, 2025, 10:34:01 pm

I did the same as Dave so I have it out. When it was built Foretravel cut the hole to high so it never sat
properly so cut the square hole lower so it will go back in and sit flush.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #92 – July 08, 2025, 10:50:19 pm

These pictures of the fiberglass repair. I am repairing all the tears and holes that aren't used anymore.
The first 3 pictures are of the bottom side and the others are the top side. I just found another tear at
the Aqua-hot hole so I will have to turn it over again. I found along time ago that epoxy doesn't stick
plastic sheathing which makes it easy to line things up.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #93 – July 11, 2025, 09:48:30 am

Quote from: oldguy – July 08, 2025, 10:34:01 pm

I did the same as Dave so I have it out. When it was built Foretravel cut the hole to high so it never sat
properly so cut the square hole lower so it will go back in and sit flush.

I put insulation in the hole and covered it with FRP on both sides. Here's a pic showing the covered hole along with the reel shelf and Wastemaster hose under it. The bolts through the floor aren't needed.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #94 – July 15, 2025, 09:22:02 pm

I have now painted the frame and all things it bolts to with Rust Bullet. It sure is a hard paint.
I started to re glue the rear bulkhead support and I put more plywood in instead of the SM.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #95 – July 16, 2025, 09:34:10 am

It's a shame all that beautiful work will be covered up and under the coach.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #96 – July 22, 2025, 09:58:23 am

First two pictures are finishing the vertical walls. Finally got the frame out of the shop and ready to
for glue. the last picture is a can I bought to put the left over Rust Bullit in as the can it comes in is
unusable. I have three and a half cans left. I bought two much but I think it will keep in these cans
and it is easy to poor a little out for small jobs.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #97 – July 22, 2025, 11:32:01 am

Excellent reference photos (171603) for anyone who may wonder what the bottom frame looks like and what is needed for the repair. A 40 foot model will naturally have 4 feet more length. If aligned for imaginary installation, the front of the frame would slide in a few inches behind the front tire.

It also shows the short amount of "bridge construction or pseudo monocoque construction" our coaches actually have. The rest forward and aft is conventional and responsible for the loose/cracked windshields that many have experienced.

Pierce

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #98 – July 22, 2025, 07:33:58 pm

Got my son and a neighbor to help glue so we could do it quickly and it was a good idea for the
neighbor as I ran out of glue and he had some.

Re: Bulkhead rebuild

Reply #99 – July 23, 2025, 10:51:10 pm

Got in place and a few bolts in and hoping to get it all bolted up tomorrow.

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