Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 05, 2025 ...

Do you own a volt meter.
Do you know how to read voltage
Read the voltage at the solenoid.
Jump the solenoid with a jumper. Does it open?
CZJZDZ 5pcs Alligator Clips Electrical Test Leads Dual Ended Crocodile Wire...

REF: When they replaced your ignition switch, they actually probably only changed the key part of the switch. 1970 Chevy .

Typically low voltage will be within the first ten feet from the batteries in both the power and ground cables. Everything down stream from these drops will add to the loss.

Coach wont start trouble shooting (Battery)

Yes it's a big job, but it is doable. Having a second set of hands will help. You need to have enough room to pull the tank out of the side of the coach. Need to have safety stands. Need to have something to set the tank on at coach level. I used my forklift. I can imagine it could be done in a day if it wasn't your first one. Need to have the tank empty to pull it out. I filled up a spare 55 gallon can and my truck several times to empty. Also with the tank removed I would recommend taking the time to clean the fuel bay out and seal up all the corners. Check any thru vent tubes to make sure they are secure and the screens are in place. Allow extra time to do the job, there will be addional needs. I also used a come-a-long to assist pulling the tank out. Also it must be lifted to clear the drain plug to prevent damaging the floor. I added an extension to facilitate draining if I ever wanted to but doubt I'll ever need it. Having some crows feet for the lines may be handy. This also would be the time to address adding a FASS system or equivalent. U320 will have a fuel cooler, this will add additional lines that need to be replaced also. I have no clue what your coach has.

1. can the hoses going to engine and generator allow to pull the tank out?
2. are they long enough?
3. are they zip tied or free to pull?

The 13.4 volts is a good indication. Now take your voltage indicator and put it in the second plug and read that voltage. One cigarette lighter plug for the start batteries and the other is for house batteries.

Your fuel solenoid has two coils, the pull and the hold. There are three wires, ground, pull, and hold. When you turn the key on, the hold is hot and stays hot until the key is off. The pull coil is activated by the starter position of switch, so it turns off when you release the starter and the engine begins to run and the solenoid remains open with the hold coil active.

If the switch is on, but the starter has not been engaged, the solenoid will not open to allow fuel to flow to the engine. If the starter has been engaged and the key is left in the run position, the fuel solenoid should be fully open until you turn the key to off. If it starts and dies then you may have low voltage at the hold coil.

You could have a bad ground (black wire to solenoid), low voltage at the white or red wires, or to both. You could make up a test pig tail to go between the solenoid and coach connector and then run the test lead connection to front of bed where a helper could monitor the voltage as you are starting and driving. Once it starts and stays running, you will only have voltage at the hold side of coil. If it is low or starts to drop off when you start driving that can lead to low performance or even a complete lack of fuel as the solenoid starts to close down.

With the solenoid unplugged, you can also check the resistance of both the pull and hold sides of the coil, both your original and new. Email Larry B, he can tell you what resistance is normal. You could also test resistance  of the ground wire when unplugged. Give it a wiggle and see if it goes up.

I think your probably on to something about the coolant sensor Scott. 
By the way  Scott, do you remember the Cummins Part Number for the Coolant Sensor by chance?

after Wolfe 10 posting that the problem could be the power getting disconnected from solenoid , my assumption is , it can be the electronic portion of the ignition switch , bad point contact inside, loose harness connection, not providing good contact properly in ON position ( old and worn out )

Starting a new post is very confusing in regards to what you have done in your prior post. Very good information was given but we don't know what you have done. 1998 Foretravel U295 - Air in fuel system question
You mentioned that you are a retired professional OTR driver. You may have some contacts in your prior service department that may be able to also help. Staying methodical will result in a resolution. Every time you touch the fuel delivery system you  possibly add additional issues. I understand it may be confusing but you are needing to resolve the leaks that you don't see. They are in the suction line from the tank to the engine driven fuel pump. This is were air is admitted into the fuel system. None is permissible. Have you checked for engine codes? Running one minute and shutting off may be a low coolant issue as mentioned prior. If you have active leaks that you can see they must be resolved before you can go any father. My personal resolution was new fuel lines and a FASS filter and constant operation lift pump. Suspect you too will follow similar to what so many others have done.